A: Rodents will travel the same pathways over and over. Those pathways are always along the base of a wall or similar vertical structure. Traps should always be placed in the pathways. Pairs of traps can be employed since mice will often jump over obstructions in their normal path.
Update: reduced my rating from ***** (5) to ** (2) as the trap broke after the first use (kill). The plastic latch mechanism cracked, presumably when it caught the first rodent, and will no longer set. It was literally set 1x and used 1x (correctly per instructions) and broke.
Remember: Glue traps cause slow, agonizing deaths for the animals they trap. Never use glue traps, and share this with your family and friends so that they will learn the truth about these vile devices, too. Mice and rats are intelligent, sensitive animals who are just as capable of pain and suffering as the cats and dogs we share our homes with.
We use a tall kitchen garbage can and a piece of news paper with an x cut into it. Tiny piece of tape in center keeps together. Fill with enough water so they can’t touch bottom. Sprinkle with some bait and wait. I live near a crick that is connected to a major river. It brings rats right to my house. Great big river rats. Works great and don’t have to worry about my pets. When rats get tired from swimming they drown. Just fish out with a rake and reset.
Wish you could get rid of rats and Wish you could get rid of rats and mice with no mess no hassles not even a need to see the dead mouse or rat. Stop wishing! Meet the rat and mouse trap that can do the job! Simply bait with ordinary pet food or another high-protein bait (peanut butter …  More + Product Details Close
The answer?  Put a trap (any trap, not just an electric one) close to a wall or boundary fence where you know or suspect the rodents are running. Make sure the opening of the trap is closest to the wall.
Experts say this is the next evolution in rat trap design. The unit is created from high-impact plastic and various other rust-resistant metals. When you buy this one, you buy it for life. The general design ensures both durability and a long lifespan. The Rat Snap is easy to use, highly effective and it is safe. There is no chance of catching your finger in it like older style traps. Customers are saying that even the savviest of rats are no match for the Tomcat. With its room to amply put bait, they can’t resist. All you have to do is open the trap and set it perpendicular to a wall. Put it right in the rat’s main travel pathways for best use. This trap works best 5 – 100 feet from a nest or food source.
Using the proper bait can make your rat trapping more effective, but it will still be useless if you haven’t selected the right types of traps and laced them correctly. You should always opt for snap traps since these are highly effective and will kill the rats instantly, making them a humane method. Glue traps are inhumane and not as effective and live cage traps require you to relocate the rat, which is a sure death sentence since these rodents keep to a small area. In addition to placing the traps correctly, you also need to use enough. Start with a dozen traps at a minimum since rats are social creatures.
Use glue traps. Glue traps are pads or sheets covered in a very sticky adhesive with a spot for bait in the middle. When the rat tries to get the bait, its legs are caught in the glue. As it struggles to free itself, its mouth gets caught in the glue and it suffocates. While glue traps are considered fairly effective for killing mice, since rats are bigger and stronger, there is some doubt as to their effectiveness at controlling rat populations. Even large, rat-sized glue traps may not always kill a rat, requiring you to euthanize it yourself.[3]
I got what I think was just one mouse in the house. And I actually was greatly relieved when I caught it. I bought the Tomcat attractant gel, and plopped a few of these little suckers around. Within an hour of bedtime, I heard a bunch of ruckus in my bathroom. My two cats (those lazy jerks), were fighting over the mouse that was stuck in the trap! ONE HOUR. I felt slightly squeamish, but I felt it was my duty to see what the damage was. I’m a compassionate individual, and I didn’t want to continue using a device that was inhumane.
Snap traps are the most practical option due to their low cost which lets you affordably place and set many traps at once.  However, snap traps are a little hard to use and some folks prefer other options.
Then, position boxes of equal height next to the buckets. Place thin wood planks on the boxes and have them overhang into the middle of the buckets. The planks should fall into the buckets easily when a little bit of pressure is applied to the end of it.
A: Individuals in a rodent population search for different types of food. For rats, anything like peanut butter, dry dog food, nuts, fruit or bacon is a great option. Try to use whatever bait the rodents are currently feeding on, but feel free to provide alternative choices as well.
TIP: How many traps should you use? That depends on the number of rats. If you suspect you have more than one or two, place several traps where you’ve seen signs of them. You can set as many as a dozen if you suspect you have a significant problem. Traps should be set 5 to 10 feet away from each other.
Beware of quality issues.  Some plastic rat traps are made from cheap brittle plastic and break easily.  The Trapper T-Rex Rat Snap Trap is made in the USA and is of the highest quality. It’s the plastic snap trap most commonly used by Professional Pest Control companies. It’s my number #2 pick for trapping rats.
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Use the Rat Zapper Classic with peanut butter or even ordinary pet food as bait to attract unwanted pests. Its smart circuit technology with metal plates allows it to deliver a two-minute, 8,000 volt shock to any sorry individual that enters its walls.
Another injustice solution is alkaseltzer (?sp) with an ultra fine coating of peanut butter on it. If you balance your platform just right, with a little resistance to tipping, the mouse can take a couple of good nibbles. Once they hit the water and take some big gulps, their bellies will expand to the point of fatality. This solution is the cheapest of all.
Glue-trap manufacturers generally direct consumers to throw away animals along with the trap, leaving the animals to suffer for days until they finally die of stress, starvation, or dehydration—all cruel and painful deaths.
Glue traps are popular because of their low profile. They may be placed flush against the cabinet or wall, where pesky rats like to travel. Making an effective sticky trap cuts down on your rat control costs and provides you with a safe alternative to chemicals and poisons.
Multiple Catch Rat Trap Tips:  Use a lure inside the holding chamber such  JF Oakes Professional Rat and Mouse Lure.  Rats and mice will smell the lure and out of curiosity  enter the trap.  Don’t wash out the trap.  A dirty smelly mouse trap always works better.
The Norway rat, also known as the barn rat, brown rat, common rat, gray rat, house rat, water rat, wharf rat, sewer rat, and super rat, originated in northern China. It now is found over most of the USA and some of the warmer regions of Canada. It’s also the most common rat in Europe, including, as you might expect, Norway, and it is found in temperate climates on every continent except Antarctica. Norway rats are relatively large, up to about 16 inches (40 cm) tip of the nose to tip of the tail in length. They have brown or grayish-brown fur. They have small ears and a blunt nose. Their tail is shorter than the rest of their body. Their droppings are about ¾ inch (16-20 mm) long, and have blunt ends. Norway rats prefer lower locations. Soil, sewers, basements, and the ground floors of home are their preferred habitat. They aren’t picky eaters, and they survive weather extremes.
Thats about it… I mean I can’t believe it worked nearly instantly. Im hoping the family living above my kitchen slowly makes its way out and eventually I can staple gun metal sheeting over the hole they are accessing. I also hope the rats don’t get wise to this device…they are so intelligent and highly skeptical.
Bury or throw out dead rats. If you find a dead rat in your trap, disposing of it is usually fairly simple: either carefully place the rat in a plastic bag and set it in your outdoor garbage container or else dig a hole in the ground a few feet deep and bury it. If you dig a hole, make sure it’s not any shallower than a foot or so or neighborhood pets may dig up the rat’s carcass.
One particularly clever solution requires only a large bucket, a spoon, and some peanut butter. Put a dab of peanut butter on the handle of the spoon and balance it on a countertop with the bucket underneath. When the mouse runs out to get the peanut butter, it will fall into the bucket along with the spoon.
Works great, follow the label!! Must be heated for spreading. I finally cut chunks with scissors and laid them on cheap serving trays from the thrift store (metal to take the heat) and baked them at 250 degrees till they flowed out. I caught 17 rats in 1 week with 6 tray traps 🙂
Glue boards (also known as glue traps) are trays coated with an extremely sticky adhesive. Often used to get rid of rodents, insects and  snakes, many buy these boards as an alternative to indiscriminate snap traps, which endanger pets and children.Animals that touch a glue board are immediately caught and stuck to the board and usually suffer a slow death by starvation or suffocation.
Manufacturers of glue boards don’t claim that they provide a quick death. In fact, they generally suggest that boards be thrown in the trash with live animals still stuck to the surface. As a result, animals continue to suffer, starved and exhausted for up to five days.