Snap Mouse Traps: In use for over a 100 years, these are simple spring-loaded devices that have a baiting-platter and “kill device”, which is either a spring-released kill bar or a serrated “kill jaw” which powerfully snaps back on the rodent that catches and kills it. It’s an incredibly powerful product, and it’s quite efficient in catching these little pests. 
The process of zapping a rat often results in the rat releasing the contents of its bladder.  If there is a build up of rat urine in the trap it will eventually foul the contact wires in the unit.  Take the time to clean the inside of the trap with a damp cloth whenever it looks dirty inside.  Make sure the power is disconnected and the batteries are removed before cleaning the trap.
Snap traps should be placed in areas of highest rodent activity. These areas can be determined by inspecting the premises for the highest concentration of rodent signs. Look for fecal pellets, tracks, runways, gnawing damage, grease marks, burrows, urine stains (made visible by a black or ultraviolet flashlight), rodent sounds, and live or dead rodents. High activity areas may include darkened corners, along walls, and behind appliances or other large objects.
Place the trap in an enticing position. Place it in areas like along a wall or a high-traffic area near a mouse hole. When the mouse enters the bottle to eat the cheese, pull back on the string looped around the skewer sticking out of the bottle’s bottom. The bottle will snap closed on the mouse, trapping it within.
We apologize if our Easy Set® design was not to your liking and want to assure you that Victor® continues to manufacture rat traps that use the original metal pedal design. We strive to present a variety of traps in order to accommodate the varied preferences of our consumers.
Ammonia-soaked cotton balls or rags will drive mice and rats out (they hate the smell). Place them in areas where the animals, their droppings, or nests have been seen, and be sure to give them a few days to leave.
Obtain a one liter plastic water bottle. A similar bottle would work as well, but one liter water bottles are ideal because they are long and narrow, and often have flat sides which allow them to sit undisturbed. You could substitute a two liter bottle as well. Whatever type of bottle you choose, ensure it is transparent and composed of thin, pliable plastic.
There are many traps on the market that promise to help homes rid their rat problem. Perhaps no trap is as good as the Tomcat Rat Snap. This black, boxy trap is unlike any other out there. It weighs only 4.8 ounces and measures a small 14.2 x 9 x 5.5 inches. Made by the Made by Motomco Company, they have designed a whole line of rodent prevention products to suit both business and commercial applications. This trap is just one part of a larger series for those who have a serious infestation problem. These are much safer than traditional traps, and they have an aggressive design that makes them simple to use. The best thing is these traps can be used time and time again. If you need to wash the unit, it can easily be put into a dishwasher too, as they are even dishwasher safe.
Tomcat Rat Snap Trap – safe, effective and working option to remove pesky rats. The trap has many benefits like the one when you don’t have to worry about getting your fingers caught. The trap has aggressive and powerful design. You can set Tomcat by hand or foot.
It might be best not to completely rely on these devices for pest control. Your best bet is to call your local Orkin Branch Office and have an Orkin Pest Specialist come to your home and provide you with a thorough rodent inspection. Your Orkin Pest Specialist will develop a customized, scientifically proven, treatment protocol that best fits your needs.
Grains and seeds – One of the more natural rat and mouse foods are grains and seeds, whether they have been stored for later use or remain attached to a plant. In agricultural settings, mice and rats are attracted to grain storage bins and farm fields prior to harvest. In a more suburban setting, they may seek out tasty seeds from your flowerbed or garden. They may also raid bird seed containers, sneak into sheds where you have stored grass seed or venture into a cabinet for unprotected cooking and baking ingredients.
Dogs and cats are usually too large to enter an electronic trap or to be injured by a small containment cage. That being said, keep an eye on your pup or kitty anyway. By contrast, if you’re a business owner with a large infestation and the need to set traps outdoors around your property, then snap, live, or glue traps can work to your advantage to rid your property of pests quickly and cheaply. Research on the desired product is also important so that you become an informed consumer. Knowing how to properly set the trap can prevent injury to yourself and to your family.
You are going to want to do absolutely everything you can to use the best mouse trap technology along with the best mouse trap best to outsmart these little critters. Otherwise, you are going to find that the trap is empty and that even though right mouse trap bait is not enough to capture them.
When the electronic PestNoMore Zapper makes a kill, both its notification light and alarm will alert you to the catch, making this a decent alternative to more traditional snapping, poison, and glue-based options. However, it’s definitely on the expensive side.
The rat, enticed into the box by a yummy treat at the entrance and smeared on the back wall , steps on a metal plate.  This triggers an electric shock which – as long as the batteries are full or nearly full – kills within a couple of seconds.
Rats are comparatively easy to trap with snap traps, because they are curious and explore a bit, and are generally fearless. Many types of traps work, but the old standard wooden snap traps are actually the most effective. Just spread some peanut butter on the trip pan. However – bait is actually of least concern. You actually don’t need any bait at all. You will have far more success if, before you even start rat trapping, you seal shut every possible entry hole using steel mesh, which rats are unable to chew through. This first step is by far the most important thing, and the only crucial thing you must do for permanent rat control. Once that is done, catching the rats is a cinch, regardless of bait. Once the building is sealed, and the rats are trapped inside, set at least a dozen or more snap traps in the attic, on areas of rat activity (look for droppings and trails in the insulation). You actually don’t need bait, but it does help so bait with peanut butter. That’s all you really need. Sure, chocolate, or slim jims, or pineapple, or pretty much any food will work. But since peanut butter is easy to apply and works as well as anything else, that’s what I go with. But remember, setting some rat traps with peanut butter randomly in the house or attic will catch a few rats, but not all of them, and the problem will last as long as you have open holes leading into your house. Read more about rat trapping for tips and proper techniques.
Well we’ve come along way in mouse traps but as you can see sometimes simpler is better. I’m not sure if any of these will usurp old Henry’s contraption but when you have a mouse infestation who cares, as long as you get your mouse. Before you get to cocky however, consider that the mouse has also had 112 years to study the problem and he hasn’t been sitting idle. Almost all of my mouse calls come after the do it yourself bug man has failed to round up his furry friend and I marvel just how a mouse can escape some of the gauntlets I see. Maybe while we’ve kept to the simple time tested methods the nation of mice have spread the word and gone high tech. My advice? Always call the expert!
With this black trap, there will be no escape for any rat or mouse. Once inside the 1.75 x 3.25 x 6.25-inch compartment, the only escape for the creature is dead. The trap uses superior smart circuit technology to sense the intruder and then activates a high-voltage electric shock.
Even though no one truly knows the origin of the black rat, the earliest traces of human co-habitation come from Southeast Asia, although there are fossils of the black rat from prehistoric times in Europe. Needless to say, this symbiotic relationship between rats and humans happened early on, and the species has become so specialized, many scientists speculate that if the human population ever died out, black rats would go extinct too.
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I put a bit of peanut butter on the center plastic bit and put this under my drawer. Finally caught the mouse that’s been running around my house for weeks! We haven’t found out where it comes in from, but at least we know that we can catch them! Thank you for these awesome traps! My brother and I took it to the next town over and released it in front of the forest. The little fellow couldn’t wriggle off. We used dishwasher soap and some water to set it free. No more rat poo around the house! Mom finally relieved. No more skittering noises in the night! Adios, El Magnifico!
Even after setting out the unset rat traps and following the procedure in step #9, you may still have rats that will not go into the snap traps. There are alpha and beta rats in a rat population. The first rats to be caught in snap traps are the beta rats (inferior rats). The superior alpha rats are much more cautious around the snap traps. At this point, use a live trap. Rodenticides may be another choice for you at this point. Rodent baits (the strong single feed baits) are more costly, but will cause much more pressure on the rodent population as they readily take the bait and die.
Rats have been the bane of human civilization for as long as there have been humans. These enterprising rodents were originally forest dwellers that took their rightful place in the animal kingdom. However, as the human population grew and developed civilizations, rats adapted to a life of living off human food waste. The rats targeted by rat traps have become pests and are known specifically as black rats, taxonomically named rattus rattus.
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The model preferred by professionals and infestation-survivors alike is the classic Victor Easy Set. It’s cheap, effective, and does the job in a way often considered to be more humane than some of the ostensibly friendlier options, as it almost always kills on contact.
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What luck! I assessed the damage, and the distance between the place the mouse munches on the bait, and where the trap comes down is PERFECT for an averagely sized mouse. It comes right down on the back of the neck/ upper spine. If you know any basic physiology, you know this is ideal. It applied enough pressure to break the mouse’s neck, but not enough to make my bathroom a gore fest. I’ve attached a picture, because it’s really not gross to look at, at all. Unless you’re bothered by a slightly misshapen mouse.