How about a LARGE detailed drawing on your website of how the trap should be set. “Engage locking bar on curved portion of bait pedal” doesn’t clarify anything, nor does the 45 degree instructions. A picture or drawing would be so helpful.
Live Catch Rat Trap Indoor Use: No, not unless used in attics or crawl spaces.  If used in these areas, be sure to check trap daily to make sure that any trapped animal has food and water.  Never leave trapped animals in a hot attic in the summer.
TIP: How many traps should you use? That depends on the number of rats. If you suspect you have more than one or two, place several traps where you’ve seen signs of them. You can set as many as a dozen if you suspect you have a significant problem. Traps should be set 5 to 10 feet away from each other.
About Victor® Victor® has been a trusted name in rodent control since 1898. Since the invention of the spring-based trap over 115 years ago, we have been continuously striving to manufacture innovative, quality products that keep your family safe from the dangers of rodents. With a variety of electronic traps, snap traps and repellents available, Victor® has a broad selection of products to meet the needs of consumers. More About Victor® »
Wear heavy gloves to avoid bites. Pour cooking oil on the trap glue at the points where the animal is caught and massage the animal’s skin or fur to work the oil into the glue. You may need to use a lot of oil (but don’t drown the poor animal!) so do this where spilled oil won’t be a problem. It will take a few minutes for the oil massage to work. Once the animal is free, give it a soapy bath to remove the oil (if it’s your pet) or take it to a veterinarian for follow-up care.
Zap any rat that tries to entice your home by using the RZC001 Classic rat trap. Made from quality plastic and featuring an effective design, this unit is suitable for the home and can be placed indoors or outdoors. It has a decent size of 12 x 4 x .5 inches that makes it suitable for most rats.
Snap traps should be placed in areas of highest rodent activity. These areas can be determined by inspecting the premises for the highest concentration of rodent signs. Look for fecal pellets, tracks, runways, gnawing damage, grease marks, burrows, urine stains (made visible by a black or ultraviolet flashlight), rodent sounds, and live or dead rodents. High activity areas may include darkened corners, along walls, and behind appliances or other large objects.
One of the main features that customers appreciate about the Rat Zapper is that you don’t have to handle the pest to dispose of it. Who wants to be nose to nose with a dead rat? All you need to do is simply release the creature into the trash, and you never have to make contact with it. Forget the old glue boards that leave live rodents stuck in your space. The old snap traps also don’t work as well as they should. The Rat Zapper will shine a bright red light to let you know that a rodent has entered the chamber. You simply dispose of the vermin and reset the unit for the next one that passes through.
Additionally, this product will need to be placed away from pets and children because they could easily become victims of its use (however this is something you should think about with all types of traps)
Check the trap frequently. When you see the tube sticking upright out of the trash can, it means the trap has been sprung. Look down the tube to ensure the mouse is within. Remove the tube and, keeping it upright with the open end up, take it at least five to ten miles from your house, preferably in an area free of housing.[3] Dump the mouse out of the tube gently in a field or meadow.
Rats and mice don’t see well, especially when it’s dark, so they follow baseboards, walls, and other straight lines.  When the glue board is placed along a straight line, the rat will usually run into it.  Sometimes they will jump over it, and if that is the case, then using 2 glue boards end to end is the solution.
It produces no mess. There will be no blood, just a dead rodent. For cleaning it, you don’t even have to touch it. Just pick the device, and slide the dead animal into the trash can, and set the trap for the next killing. This device kills more than 90% animals which enter it.
If you ever see that glue traps are being used to capture and kill animals, contact those responsible, ask them to stop using the traps, and then contact PETA. Also, wherever you see glue traps sold, be sure to send a polite letter to the store manager asking that the store stop selling them, and have your friends do the same.
If you plan on using plastic snap traps indoors, it is best to use them in a box with holes cut out on the sides or inside a rodent bait station.  This is purely for safety reasons.  Plastic rat traps are one of the safest and effective traps on the market.  Safe enough in my opinion to use around older children and pets.
Best suited for small mouse infestations and if you just want to see if you really do have mice up there or not. The history behind this traps means its most effective at what’s required – killing mice fast.​
When you have a mouse infestation, your first instinct may be to immediately phone a pest control professional to take care of the problem. But that decision in itself is a problem – too inconvenient and too costly! So, if you want to know more about how to prevent a mice infestation, read this page. Otherwise, let’s get into the cheaper alternative in getting rid of these pesky little rodents, mouse traps!
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A: Be sure to check traps daily and replace as needed. Wear gloves when disposing of rodents. You can also disinfect the area with a household cleaner if you are concerned that there is a possible threat to your health.
For major rat infestations, call an exterminator. While it’s possible to get rid of lots of rats with your own traps, sometimes, it’s best to leave the problem to professionals. If you don’t feel comfortable trapping rats yourself or you believe your infestation is too large for you to control, call a pest control expert as soon as possible. Most pest control companies offer experienced exterminators trained to use a wide range of solutions, including mechanical traps, kill and seal traps, ultrasonic repellants and rodenticides. Signs of a major infestation include:[7]
At last, the homemade rat trap from bottle can be placed in an infested area. In addition, the caught rat won’t be able to escape once it comes in because the toothpick prevents the barbwire door from swinging outward.
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Glue traps also pose disease risks to humans. In fact, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) and Health Canada specifically warn against their use because of the threat of hantaviruses posed when terrified, ensnared animals lose control of their bodily functions.
Use glue traps. Glue traps are pads or sheets covered in a very sticky adhesive with a spot for bait in the middle. When the rat tries to get the bait, its legs are caught in the glue. As it struggles to free itself, its mouth gets caught in the glue and it suffocates. While glue traps are considered fairly effective for killing mice, since rats are bigger and stronger, there is some doubt as to their effectiveness at controlling rat populations. Even large, rat-sized glue traps may not always kill a rat, requiring you to euthanize it yourself.[3]
For rodent control, anecdotal data may indicate that these devices can provide some level of control for a short period of time. But rodents seem to learn to avoid the mechanisms used. Mice quickly become accustomed to regularly repeated sounds. Ultrasonic sounds have limited use in rodent control because they are directional and do not penetrate behind objects. Testing of sound devices shows that about half the sound energy is gone within 15 feet of the device.
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Food and animal byproducts — Rodents will even chow down on various non-edibles, such as worn clothes and leather. Simply tasting or smelling like a food is often enough for a hungry rodent to make a test-nibble on such an object. If the taste or smell is strong enough, a desperate rodent will continue with its meal, too.
Here’s the picture of the top cover that I used, didn’t any luck with it neither. I have laid a commercial sticky trap, didn’t have any luck with it neither. It was sitting under my bed for almost 2 weeks now. Until my wife saw 2 of them running around, chasing each other like in a fight, as if not scared of humans. So she put it along their path where it passed through in one direction. Sure enough when it came back, swooop! Ssstick! And it caught it. Ever wonder about the other one? Well, as her story goes, the other smaller one then saw the opportunity to attack the stuck mouse. So it jumped into it like she’s not watching. Here’s they’re picture.
Pros: Low maintenance — not necessary to check for dead rats, as the rats will leave the trap and die elsewhere. Can be left out semi-permanently if poison is consistently refilled. These traits make poison traps good choices for outdoor rat control.
After inspecting the rat infested areas, place the rat glue boards in those areas. Place the glue traps directly in their runways. Rats usually travel along baseboards and walls, since they use the walls for guidance. Place glue traps where there has been rodent activity.
Mice are crafty little creatures. They may try to sneak away with the bait before getting caught. They will communicate with each other, share tips, tricks, and tactics for stealing bait from the mouth of the trap without ever getting caught.
PETA often fields calls from people who have discovered small “nontarget” animals hopelessly trapped on these sticky boards. One distraught woman found a glue trap with a bird, two frogs, and a salamander stuck to its surface. All the animals were still alive when she found them but died later, despite her efforts to free them.
This entry was posted in Rats and Mice and tagged history of mouse traps, homemade mouse traps, how mice traps work, when were glue boards invented, who invented mouse traps, wood mouse traps. Bookmark the permalink.
TOMCAT Glue Boards are manufactured with low-profile plastic trays, designed to reduce the chance of rodents stopping at the edge of the tray. The trap’s narrow lip also keeps rodents from skirting along the edges of the tray and avoiding the glue. Once rodents step onto the glue tray, TOMCAT’s tenacious glue will hold a rat securely, while just the slightest contact with the glue will hold a mouse.
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This stuff does work, but only if you handle it like the comnercial manufacturers… they MELT it to deposit it on their glue boards. Don’t bother trying any other method. Get trays ready that you want to use… cheap baking sheets/trays from thrift stores with a half-inch or more rim work great. Melt the whole can over a gas stove burner turned as low as it goes… it takes a while. I don’t know if an electric stove can be turned low enough… you don’t want to burn it. Use a cheap plastic soup ladle that you won’t need for anything else to transfer it to the baking sheets.
Rodents are creatures of habit—they like to take the same path to and from their nests. So your best bet for catching them is to intercept them as they travel back and forth. Target areas near refrigerators, in pantries, along baseboards, or in attic spaces.
The humane rat traps on this list were chosen because they are easy to use, easy to set and effective at capturing a rat without doing it any harm. But just remember that no matter how well a trap is engineered, if another rats sees one get caught, the chances are it may never venture near that trap again. These trap wary rats may have to be caught using a different method to fully eradicate any substantial population, and humane traps may not be the answer.
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When you see gopher holes popping up in When you see gopher holes popping up in your yard you’ll want to have one of these on hand. The Victor Black Box Gopher Trap effectively kills gophers without the use of chemicals or poisons. The chocker loop-style trap features weather-resistant plastic and galvanized steel construction for superior strength and …  More + Product Details Close
There are two clever reason why rats travel alongside walls: First, they use their whiskers to sense objects in front of them in the dark. By keeping one set of whiskers touching a wall, they can tell if they are still on the right path. Secondly, traveling along a wall provides protection – they only have to watch for trouble on the open-air side of their path.
Even though rats have tiny heads, they are not as naive as people often assume. A rat will be suspicious of new objects in its environment. This applies to rat traps, which could fail to lure prey if placed cold turkey out in the open.
The Victor Electronic Rat Trap is the ultimate in rodent control. It works by delivering a humane, high-voltage shock to effectively kill the invading rat. This powerful device is capable of killing up to 50 rats per set of fully charged batteries (4 C), making it a great value when you’re dealing with a sizable infestation. It’s also easy to use. Get started by simply applying a high protein bait in the provided bait cup, place the trap in a location with high rodent activity and turn it on. The trap is equipped with advanced smart circuit technology, which senses when a rat enters the tunnel, triggering the system to deliver a humane, high-voltage shock once the rat steps on the electrified plate. Since rats have the ability to restart their hearts after an electrical shock, this trap applies shock for 2 minutes to ensure higher kill rates. After making a catch, a green LED light blinks to indicate a kill. For your convenience, the trap’s design allows you to easily dispose of the dead rodent without having to see or touch it. The new and improved design of the electronic trap has a removable kill chamber, which provides better plate access so you can easily clean and bait it in between uses. These traps require no poison or chemicals and can be used anywhere inside your home or business to ensure years of effective rat control.
Live traps, on the other hand, always mean you’ll have to deal with a living rat. Many locales have passed laws that ban releasing a living rat, and if that’sthe case, you’ll have to kill it first before disposal. If that’s an uncomfortable proposition, skip this option
First of all the glue is very difficult to get out of the can because it wants to stick to itself. It helps to have one person hold the can while another person pulls some glue out and cuts it free with a pair of scissors. I started with a golf-ball sized “glob” and spread it out to a thickness of about 1/4 inch. The glue immediately started pulling itself back together to the approximate shape and location of the original “glob” I started with. All that remained in the area of the spread was a sticky residue but not thick enough catch a mouse. I re-spread the glob several times and even tried using a heat gun to make it easier to spread but the glue would always pull itself back to approximate it’s original shape. I finally tried spreading the glue and making cuts across the spread before the glue could pull itself back together. This resulted is a series of smaller globs but there was no way to get the glue to spread to a consistent thickness and stay put. The best I could do was to cover a piece of cardboard with lots of globs, spread them as best as possible, and then come back and add additional globs between the original globs to fill in. After a week(outside), it’s caught a lizard, three yellow jackets, a wasp, and numerous smaller flying insects…but no mice.
The Snap E Rat Trap comes in packs of 6 allowing you to distribute the traps around the house to catch the problem rodents quickly. The quick response time that these traps use means there is no escape for the rodent once it’s been caught. There is a vertical bar that like the traditional wooden traps have except these traps have half the distance to travel so the response is quicker therefore leaving the mouse with next to no time to retrieve the bait. There is also an extra-large paddle and strike bar that catches the rodents from the front the sides and the back, leaving the rodent no way to escape. The Big Snap E does not allow any stains or odors like the old fashioned wooden traps; they can be reused for years so you get maximum usage for your money. The simple and sanitary traps are safe for both the user and the animal trapped inside.
Once the baiting program has begun, do not move bait stations to different locations as rats may react unfavorably to the change and begin avoiding the stations. Bait type and formulation used inside the stations should also remain the same.
Rats venture into your home to find food Rats venture into your home to find food and heat. Stop invasions before they happen by following these handy tips: Cover all openings into your home. Ensure stove and dryer vents are tightly sealed. Store food including pet food in sealed containers. Keep garbage can lids tightly closed. If rats …  More + Product Details Close
I caught 8 in my house and 6 in my car. I have 3 different types of live traps. The reason? The mice have figured out how to get a yummy snack, a place to puzzle for intellectual amusement then going on about their mousey day.
If the problem areas are anywhere within your home, garage or office, the Victor® Electronic Rat Trap is a convenient and powerful alternative to conventional snap traps. Operating on four C-size batteries, this mailbox-like device lures rats inside and kills them instantly with a 4,000-volt shock.
__The ‘Professional’ style trap rarely works. I have watched rodents OH-SO cautiously not touch the yellow pad and ever so lightly nibble on the bait. Only once did it work. Two mouses/meeses were at the trap and were wrestling for the food where the trigger was accidentally sprung. But, it caught 2 mouse’s in my house’s.
If you encounter an animal who is stuck to a glue trap, place a few drops of cooking oil or baby oil in between the glue and the animal, and gently work the animal free. Be sure to keep oil use to a minimum, otherwise oiled animals can perish from exposure later on. While removing the animal from the glue, slide tissue or paper underneath freed body parts to prevent them from getting re-stuck. Once free, active and alert rodents can be released outdoors during good weather within a one-block radius of where they were discovered. Lethargic or imperiled animals, or animals caught during extreme weather, should be rushed to a local veterinarian or wildlife rehabilitator or call PETA for guidance.
The model preferred by professionals and infestation-survivors alike is the classic Victor Easy Set. It’s cheap, effective, and does the job in a way often considered to be more humane than some of the ostensibly friendlier options, as it almost always kills on contact.