If a man can write a better book, preach a better sermon or make a better mouse trap than his neighbor, though he builds his house in the woods. The world will make a beaten path to his door.  Ralph Waldo Emerson
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The Victor Classic Rat Trap –  This is the original wooden rat trap with a heavy wire closure.  It was designed hundreds of years ago and hasn’t changed much today.  Known as the “finger breaker”, the original wooden rat trap works well.  However, if misused or tampered with by human hands or pets, it will break fingers and paws.
Havahart one door trap (X-small) – a human tool for removal of rats from your yard or home. The trap ensures safe and quick trapping. The product is simple-to-operate even if you are not a professional trapper.
Let’s face it: killing rats probably isn’t one of your favorite things to do. This is why the Rat Zapper® Classic was made to be as humane, safe, and easy to use as possible. If you want a top-quality solution that will deliver years of dependable service, buy the electronic Rat Zapper® Classic for quick control of your rodent problem.
For major rat infestations, call an exterminator. While it’s possible to get rid of lots of rats with your own traps, sometimes, it’s best to leave the problem to professionals. If you don’t feel comfortable trapping rats yourself or you believe your infestation is too large for you to control, call a pest control expert as soon as possible. Most pest control companies offer experienced exterminators trained to use a wide range of solutions, including mechanical traps, kill and seal traps, ultrasonic repellants and rodenticides. Signs of a major infestation include:[7]
The sole exception here is when dealing with live traps. Since live traps are almost always significantly more expensive than ordinary disposable rat traps, it can be impractical to buy more than one. Thus, live traps are best-suited for small rat problems — instances when there’s only about one or two rats loose in your house. Any larger, and you run the risk of being unable to catch all of the rats before they breed. See below for more information on live traps.
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Update: reduced my rating from ***** (5) to ** (2) as the trap broke after the first use (kill). The plastic latch mechanism cracked, presumably when it caught the first rodent, and will no longer set. It was literally set 1x and used 1x (correctly per instructions) and broke.
Wish you could get rid of rats and Wish you could get rid of rats and mice with no mess no hassles not even a need to see the dead mouse or rat. Stop wishing! Meet the rat and mouse trap that can do the job! Simply bait with ordinary pet food or another high-protein bait (peanut butter …  More + Product Details Close
However if this is not an option or you feel the need to permantley dispose of the rodent, I would recommend a simple bucket of water. Put the bottle in and put a brick over it to submerge the trap. Walk away. Come back when all the drama is over and dispose of the entire bottle.
Set out unset rat traps can be buried in grain, sawdust, or similar materials within an empty cardboard box or pie pan. Place the rat bait in small pieces near it and above it with the hidden trap below. Once the rats start taking the bait, set the traps. This set up will acclimate the rats to the traps, once adapted, set enough traps to kill a large percentage of the population before the rodents become ” trap shy” This method is called mass trapping, catching them at a higher rate than they can repopulate and become shy of the trap.
Use snap traps. The “classic” spring-loaded wooden snap trap is a proven, effective way to start trapping rats. These traps work by snapping a metal wire over the rat’s neck when it tries to grab the bait. Snap traps usually come in several sizes, so be sure to pick one that’s big enough to kill to the rats at your residence — using traps that are too small may maim the rat without killing it or lead to a protracted death from strangulation.
All it takes to eliminate the rats from your property is installing the Rodent Terminator. Made from sturdy plastic and come in two chambers, this light brown trap can discreetly be placed in many places around the home. It’s light weight of 1.8 pounds and decent dimensions of 12 x 4 x 5.2 make it perfect for the basement, beneath the cabinets, in the attics and many other places.
Unless you are willing to deal with a hostile rat, live trapping is not recommended.  Releasing an angry rodent may sound easy, but there can be many issues to consider.  Rats can escape and get away from traps easier than you think.  Urine and dropping issues are also something to consider.  Food, water and heat are also necessary to keep them alive.
The very first patented (and lethal) trap took the form of a set of spring-loaded, cast-iron jaws called the Royal No. 1, which was patented by James M. Keep of New York in 1879. The classic spring-loaded snap trap, with which people are most familiar, was first patented in 1894 by William C. Hooker of Abingdon, Illinois. A British inventor named James Henry Atkinson patented a very similar device in 1898, which he dubbed the Little Nipper.
Take any pets or young children into account. When choosing your traps, it’s important to consider any people or animals at your residence that could conceivably fall victim to your trap by accident — namely, pets and small children. If you do have pets or small children, you may not necessarily need to avoid lethal traps all together, but you should be ready to take all necessary precautions to ensure that your children and pets won’t have access to the traps. This can include keeping a close eye on your child or pet when it is around the traps and, if necessary, creating physical barriers for its own safety with playpen walls, etc.
Make sure that the plates are clear of any debris, especially urine or hair from a recent kill that may interfere with the unit’s proper function. Remember, both plates need to be clean so that the electric circuit is made complete by the rodent stepping on both.
A: Be sure to check traps daily and replace as needed. Wear gloves when disposing of rodents. You can also disinfect the area with a household cleaner if you are concerned that there is a possible threat to your health.
Use two traps in the position mentioned above or place them length-wise, end-to-end (red “V’s” on traps pointing towards each other) so that the bait pedal end will be encountered first as mice approach from either direction. For trickier spots like walls, air ducts, and crawl spaces, check out our article here.
This set up is genius on paper. It would allow me to catch multiple varmints without having to re-bait or reset the trap. Set it and forget. But in real life, you’re going to need a bigger bucket – or smaller rats.
Update: PB trap caught another male. Also, saw some reviews that some were caught by the legs & alive; all the rats in my traps have been caught around the neck & killed instantly. There is a pre-drilled hole in the back corner that I looped some ss wire through to avoid a rat running off with the trap but it hasn’t been an issue.
Again, this food has a powerful and distinctive odor that attracts rats. An effective way to bait a trap with this food is to tie a small piece of bacon to the trap. This will prevent a rat from quickly snatching the bacon and escaping before the springing trap snares it.
Given how rats are likely to nest in basements and crawl spaces and travel through vents and wall cavities, traps should be placed along the walls of office rooms and hallways during off hours, as well as placing them in the lower, dark spaces at all times. If there’s a large infestation in a trash room or around a dumpster area, a mass–trapping could be in order.
Cut around the bottle’s circumference one inch from the place where it starts to taper toward the cap. If the bottle were standing up, you’d be cutting in a long horizontal line around its circumference. Do not cut the top completely off; rather, cut approximately 90% of the way around the bottle with a scalpel or extendable blade.
In that sense, they won’t necessarily approach an unfamiliar object or trap, especially if they see that another rat has already been captured. Some people also keep mice and rats as pets (in cages), so one must take this into account when setting any type of trap around the house. Doing so will keep a pet rat safe from harm while only baiting and trapping the animals that shouldn’t be in the area.
There are several alternatives to using mouse glue traps. Snap traps work by triggering a mechanism designed to break the mouse’s neck. Though they pose the risk of causing physical injury when tampered with by children and pets, they are inexpensive, can be reused in most cases and quickly trap and kill mice without inhumane drawn-out suffering. If safety is an issue with regard to children or pets, you can even purchase covered snap traps.
If you suspect your problem is down to a single rat, you’ll likely be able to solve the problem with one or two strategically placed traps. If, however, there’s an infestation on your property, you’ll probably need to place a dozen or so traps all around your house.
Also known as “glue boards” or “glue trays,” sticky glue traps are made of pieces of plastic, cardboard, or fiberboard coated with a strong adhesive designed to trap any animal who wanders across or lands on their surface. Glue traps are among the most inhumane devices on the market today.
Ammonia-soaked cotton balls or rags will drive rodents out (they hate the smell). Place them in areas where rodents, droppings, or nests have been seen, and be sure to give the animals a few days to leave. Then, to keep unwelcome “visitors” out, seal entry points using foam sealant, steel wool, hardware cloth, or metal flashing. If any rodents need to be removed from homes, this can be done with humane box traps.
While the boards do trap mice, they will not kill them. This leaves the rat to suffer a slow and painful death from hunger and dehydration if not disposed off quickly – so make sure you inspect daily.
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Glue boards are also dangerous to household pets and other animals that aren’t the user’s intended target. If the board is small, a larger animal may be able to pull it off, though they will likely lose fur or skin. Smaller animals, however, have no means of escape. Larger glue boards can entrap medium-sized animals, including pets. Cats often require veterinary help and surgery to remove glue boards.
Be sure to position the snap trap so that the baited end of each trap is placed perpendicular to the wall. Rodents generally travel with their bodies against a wall for protection.  It may be necessary to bait a rat trap without setting the trap and allow the bait to be eaten a couple of times. Then set the trap with more bait. Rats tend to shy away from new objects so this method gets them accustomed to the trap.  Mice are more inquisitive than rats, so pre-baiting is less likely to be needed.