If a man can write a better book, preach a better sermon or make a better mouse trap than his neighbor, though he builds his house in the woods. The world will make a beaten path to his door.  Ralph Waldo Emerson
As hinted by its name, the PestNoMore will make pests such as rats no more in your home. The well-built contraception comes in new improved design for better performance and reliability. It’s constructed from high-quality plastic and can be powered from the AC mains or batteries.
Also known as “glue boards” or “glue trays,” sticky glue traps are made of pieces of plastic, cardboard, or fiberboard coated with a strong adhesive designed to trap any animal who wanders across or lands on their surface. Glue traps are among the most inhumane devices on the market today.
Big sheets work best for big rats. When it traps one, you will hear it squeeking. Kill it… place whole tray in a tub of water, or whack it in the head. Use a disposible glove, slowly peel the rodent off the glue (usually by holding the tail) and dispose of the carcass. This way you can reuse the trap many times, until so much glue has been removed that you need to add more. Just try to place your glue traps in locations with a minimum of loose material around them… straw, leaves, trash, etc…. so stuff doesn’t blow or get kicked onto the glue. Works great in barns, sheds, etc. I’ve caught about thirty rats and some mice already this way.
If you unintentionally trap a small animal that you didn’t intend to trap such as a lizard or snake, it can usually be released from the trap in the same manner. The nature of glue traps is that the more an animal struggles, the more stuck it becomes, so try to keep the animal calm, and keep it from sticking its nose in the glue.
These are the traditional traps which are being used for years. These remind you about the famous cartoon show, Tom and Jerry. In these, we set a bait to attract the rodents, and when they try to steal, it triggers the trap and a strong & heavy steel bar lands on them with a huge force.
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Place the trap where you have seen signs of rodent activity or along the wall where rodents primarily travel. The end of the trap where the yellow pedal is baited should be placed flush against the wall.
Use glue traps. Glue traps are pads or sheets covered in a very sticky adhesive with a spot for bait in the middle. When the rat tries to get the bait, its legs are caught in the glue. As it struggles to free itself, its mouth gets caught in the glue and it suffocates. While glue traps are considered fairly effective for killing mice, since rats are bigger and stronger, there is some doubt as to their effectiveness at controlling rat populations. Even large, rat-sized glue traps may not always kill a rat, requiring you to euthanize it yourself.[3]
Set outdoor traps on narrow paths and under foliage. Rats can be a little harder to trap outdoors because it’s harder to predict their movements. Try placing traps along narrow locations where you’ve observed rats before, like tree branches, the top edges of fences, gutters, and so on. You may also want to place a few traps under dense foliage, as rats love the safety and cover that thick bushes and shrubs can provide.
I originally bought the first one back in October. Out here in the Arizona desert we have pack rats the size of Chicago. They are also clever and have been able to work around all the other traps I tried including mechanical and electronic. These rats seldom get into the house but when they do, they can be hard to eliminate. Most of the problem areas are outdoors, like under a shed I built with an improper style of foundation.
Epic fail! The Victor rat trap trigger had been stripped of peanut butter and was dangling from the bucket. Now what? DRG suggested that the “Stairway to Heaven” was not wide enough and the Victor trap needed to be placed, as designed, flat on the floor. I reset the trap and anchored it. I’ve had rats drag traps out of reach before. Rotting rat inside a wall is not pleasant!
Pet Food – If it’s good enough for your dog or cat, it’s good enough for the rats and mice of your neighborhood. They won’t limit themselves to cat and dog food, either. Expect mice and rats to be interested in anything you feed any other animal including grains, seed, hay, fish food and so on.
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The Advantek Multi-Animal Catch & Release Rodent Trap has no moving parts. Just bait and place the trap in an area with known rat activity. A hinged door on the bottom allows humane release. Read Full Review
When you set up and bait a snap trap, it’s best to wear gloves and apply the bait with kitchen utensils. The reasons for this are simple. Rats are generally afraid of human smell, and they can often detect it from the oil left by fingerprints. If you do happen to touch a trap with your bare hands, wash it off with hot water before setting it. While fingerprints won’t render traps totally ineffective, your chances of trapping a rat improves when your scent is absent from the trap itself.
Mice are crafty little creatures. They may try to sneak away with the bait before getting caught. They will communicate with each other, share tips, tricks, and tactics for stealing bait from the mouth of the trap without ever getting caught.
When people look to methods to get rid of rodents, they often turn to an extermination company. These methods provide a safe disposal system that means you don’t have to touch the rat. In some systems, you don’t even have to see it. The chances of them getting away are nearly none with these revamped styles.
Ideal if you don’t wish to deal with the disposal of dead mice and rodents. This model is designed to be reused multiple times for years. It can be opened, and refilled with bait periodically. Its pet-safe design means pets (and kids) won’t easily access the bait.
I got what I think was just one mouse in the house. And I actually was greatly relieved when I caught it. I bought the Tomcat attractant gel, and plopped a few of these little suckers around. Within an hour of bedtime, I heard a bunch of ruckus in my bathroom. My two cats (those lazy jerks), were fighting over the mouse that was stuck in the trap! ONE HOUR. I felt slightly squeamish, but I felt it was my duty to see what the damage was. I’m a compassionate individual, and I didn’t want to continue using a device that was inhumane.
I re-baited the trap, turned it on, and checked it the next morning. I could see a rat tail poking out of the trap. I don’t know how they call this thing “no see” when it the tail was impossible to miss. Anyway, I disposed of the rat and reset the trap without applying more bait. Another rat down in just a few hours! Fast forward a couple of weeks and the trap has claimed (I think) 11 rats so far and I’m still on the first set of batteries. Super effective!
Best suited for small mouse infestations and if you just want to see if you really do have mice up there or not. The history behind this traps means its most effective at what’s required – killing mice fast.​
Victor Rat Trap (Electronic) – electronic product that kills rats in moments. The trap activates when a rodent touches the metal plates. The trap reduces rat escapes and offers a 90% rat kill rate. It is recommended to bait this electronic trap with peanut butter. When the critter is in the trap a green indicator gives signal for up to 24 hours.
No doubt, the best way to catch a canny rat with a sticky trap is by putting some bait – bacon or peanut butter – inside a circle of the trap. Rats will have to cross the tape to get the food and will be caught.
Today there are several manufacturers of Multiple Catch mouse traps.  The Kness trap is still one of the best and most used by pest control companies.  Most food preparation facilities, bakeries, restaurants and warehouses use these traps indoors.  They can be placed ever 25-50 feet along walls and around doors
Product didn’t work, the first night I set it up – the rodent took the bait without exterminating it…it also chewed thru the adapter. I contacted Garden for a replacement adapter and they said they’d look into it in their first response but now their support email account is rejecting my follow up emails (which is very strange)…but now the 30 day return window is closed (coincidence, I think not).
Although silent and effective, these traps need to be emptied regularly or other rats will become “trap wary” and either avoid the area completely, urinate on them as a marker, or tip them over to render the trap ineffective.
If you encounter an animal who is stuck to a glue trap, place a few drops of cooking oil or baby oil in between the glue and the animal, and gently work the animal free. Be sure to keep oil use to a minimum, otherwise oiled animals can perish from exposure later on. While removing the animal from the glue, slide tissue or paper underneath freed body parts to prevent them from getting re-stuck. Once free, active and alert rodents can be released outdoors during good weather within a one-block radius of where they were discovered. Lethargic or imperiled animals, or animals caught during extreme weather, should be rushed to a local veterinarian or wildlife rehabilitator or call PETA for guidance.
Live traps are generally larger than standard snap traps.  The larger trap size can be more of an issue to the rat and can create “trap shyness”.  Live rat traps also create another problem – the rat is alive when captured.   The rat has to then be relocated far enough away that it can’t find it’s way back.  That usually means a trip in the car or truck to let it go somewhere.