There are a number of innovative mouse traps available for every unique infestation situation. You will find them on this page, we have gathered the top products in 2018 and compiled them all on this list of best mouse traps for at-home use. There are electric and snapper ones on here so you will definitely have good options for ones that will work for your taste in catching these little buggers from destroying your home. There are a few criteria included in this review, they are; durability, effectiveness, usabilty, pricing, and over quality. 
It’s best to use the same bait over and over again. Rats and mice cannot vomit, so they avoid potential poisoning by eating only tiny amounts of new foods. They are more likely to take a bait they have eaten before.
When the electronic PestNoMore Zapper makes a kill, both its notification light and alarm will alert you to the catch, making this a decent alternative to more traditional snapping, poison, and glue-based options. However, it’s definitely on the expensive side.
The Rodent Terminator has two unique features that make up for the lack of a plug in options.  The trap comes apart into two separate pieces for cleaning which completely prevents ANY chance of accidentally shocking yourself when you wipe it down.  This trap is also one of the few that can be left in the rain without permanent damage.
Attempt to locate “favorite feeding locations” (indicated by a high concentration of rodent signs-droppings, tracks, odors, shredded paper, etc.) and replace existing food sources with bait stations in these locations.
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The Bell Labs T-Rex comes in a set of four and can be placed alone or in pairs near baseboards, corners, along walls, or in any spaces where rodents are likely to travel. Its bait cup can be removed, refilled, and replaced between settings.
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The most effective rat trap really depends on the severity of the infestation and the type of solution one chooses to go with. If you have other pets around (e.g. dogs and cats), snap or glue traps aren’t recommended, as they are both dangerous and annoying. If you absolutely have to set rat traps like these around pets, always use non-poisonous baits. Doing so will keep pests contained while posing minimal danger to other animals.
I prefer it to snap traps because of the lack of blood and gore – the body is very easily disposed of without leaving a mess behind which is a potential hazard to chickens, pets, wildlife or children.
Black rats, which scale trees and enter homes through coin-sized holes in attics, find peanut butter irresistible. Brown rats, which typically rummage through garbage and snake their way inside homes via tiny cracks, can be tempted with a smelly cheese.
Outstanding product. We had a rat that could set off snap raps and never get caught, escape from glue traps, and was apparently immune to poison. Finally got him with this, thank you Victor!!! We also caught mice in it, not sure why other people say it doesn’t work on them.
Set outdoor traps on narrow paths and under foliage. Rats can be a little harder to trap outdoors because it’s harder to predict their movements. Try placing traps along narrow locations where you’ve observed rats before, like tree branches, the top edges of fences, gutters, and so on. You may also want to place a few traps under dense foliage, as rats love the safety and cover that thick bushes and shrubs can provide.
Compact, simply-designed, and unobtrusive, the all metal Made2catch Classic features a heavy-duty paddle and a powerful spring action for snapping quickly on large rodents of all kinds. Its rugged construction ensures longevity over time.
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Peanut butter is among the most highly recommended rat baits to use because it attracts the animal and is incredibly simple. You most likely already have peanut butter in your home and when you spread it on a trap, it will stay in place. Since the rat can’t just pick it up and take the bait with them, they are more likely to be trapped. While peanut butter is a popular choice, you can also use whole nuts, bacon, berries, gumdrops, or dried fruit. Generally speaking, roof rats will prefer foods that are plant based while Norway rats will prefer items with a lot of sugar, protein, and fat. Either species likes peanut butter and dried fruit.
I have a huge rat problem going on… They are in the crawl space above my kitchen having a grand ol’ time and living quite comfortably. I didnt notice the screen covers on the vents have holes in them and they just climb the stucco to get up there – this was pointed out to me by a pest control inspector. Worst of all there is no way for a person to access this area to get them out, nor poison them and have them die up there, potentially.
Here is what happens – a small 1/4″ inch rubber ring is attached inside of the Nooski and stretched to size of a quarter.  When the rat sticks its head inside the trap opening, it trips a lever that releases the rubber ring.  The rubber ring is released around the throat of the rat instantly suffocating it.
A: Rodents will travel the same pathways over and over. Those pathways are always along the base of a wall or similar vertical structure. Traps should always be placed in the pathways. Pairs of traps can be employed since mice will often jump over obstructions in their normal path.
Kness Ketch-all Multiple Catch Rat Trap –  The ‘Worlds Best Mousetrap”, the Kness Ketch-all Multiple Catch Trap captures mice and smaller rats. It is not designed to capture large rats.  The story behind this trap is that Mr. Kness developed it for his child’s school in the early 1920’s.  The school had a mouse problem that they could not control. Mr. Kness, being an engineer, developed the world’s first repeating mouse trap. As the story goes, it eliminated the mice and Kness Manufacturing was born.
Rats (especially Roof rats) are wary of new objects, new foods or changed in environment. They are constantly exploring surroundings and notice changes and are suspious by nature.. This is why traps and bait stations may be avoided for a day or two. They approach new food or object with caution. Within a rat colony, they may be a few rats that are extra cautious and manage to avoid traps or eating rodent baits. See Rat Trapping Tips and Rat Baiting Tips.
Glue traps are completely indiscriminate. PETA fields calls on a regular basis from distraught individuals who have discovered birds, lizards, snakes, bats, chipmunks, squirrels, and even their own animal companions hopelessly stuck to these sticky boards.
Each of these products has its place in an overall mouse infestation control strategy. However, if you are squeamish about dealing with mice – either dead ones or those caught alive, then Baiting stations are the best option for you because you don’t actually see the results of your mice-control efforts, yet you enjoy a mouse-free attic and environment.
To trap Roof Rats, set traps on tree limbs, under vegetation on a backyard fence or trellis, or on other aboveground locations roof rats are known to frequent. Fasten the traps with wire to overhead pipes, rafters and beams.
If you place the trigger bar on the right side of the bait pad towards the “S” then the trigger is set to “Sensitive”.  This means that the trap is harder for you to set but easier for the rat to trigger.
Can anything speak louder than a photo of a giant dead rat in this device? I don’t think so. I can’t believe it. I set it up Saturday afternoon… no luck that first night (might has been my bait choice and/or location), then moving to the edge of a wall facing the bush my cat caught one in and putting the bit of peanut butter on the wall of the back, and bam, this morning I look out and see the little feet hanging out the front entrance. Im an animal lover but after what I have been through..seeing that felt like christmas to me.
Most house calls will likely set you back a couple of hundred bucks for an initial assessment. And then, once they have set up bait stations, they will charge you another fee (probably a hundred bucks or more) every time they visit your home to empty the trap and reset it. This is not something that you’d want to keep doing if you have an infestation in your property consistently. Your bill will be stacking up really big, really fast. This is just unnecessary expense on your part that you could be spending else where. So, that is why knowing which mousetraps to buy and how to set it up is so important these days. It’s such a money-saver!
Read and follow all directions and safety precautions. The clamping force from the spring is very powerful. Combined with the tough, interlocking plastic jaws, the snapping force generated is more than enough to fracture the maxilla and mandible of 6-8lbs rats in my area. The interlocking jaw are strong enough to trap rats whose arms/ legs triggered the trap. Very easy and safe to release dead rodent and set for a new one. Bait application and installation is very convenient. The trigger is very sensitive. Would have preferred if the bait and the bait hole on the trigger tongue were located about .5″ deeper in the trap to ensure a head/neck trap for bigger rats. A shorter trigger tongue could also facilitate this. Other than that, I hope this trap does not get discontinued. I mounted some in my fruit trees (mangoes) for rats. The next morning I discovered two huge rats that were killed on first night of use. Peanut butter, as recommended, is the best bait. Extremely pleased with this product.
For especially small pets, like miniature dogs, ferrets, hamsters, and so on, larger snap traps can potentially cause serious injury. Bigger animals and children may still be at risk for broken bones, gashes, and so on if they step on one of the traps.
Another injustice solution is alkaseltzer (?sp) with an ultra fine coating of peanut butter on it. If you balance your platform just right, with a little resistance to tipping, the mouse can take a couple of good nibbles. Once they hit the water and take some big gulps, their bellies will expand to the point of fatality. This solution is the cheapest of all.
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Place a piece of food on the construction paper. Place the food — cheese, a piece of candy, or bread — along the edge of the coffee can directly opposite the point at which the ruler, paint stirring stick, or other ramp-like object you’ve affixed to the coffee can meets the can’s mouth.[7]
In our opinion, we rank the Good Nature New Zealand as the best trap for them all. Firstly, its innovative-design allures the rats and kills them faster than the others. Secondly, it’s very simple and easy to use even without following the included instructions. Thirdly, the five-star rating and positive reviews are quite high. Finally, it has a high success rate compared to the rest. With the Good Nature rat trap, the rat menace will be over sooner-rather-than-later.
4. The mouse dies trying to break free – Mice have been known to break their necks, tear off their skin or even chew their own legs off trying to make their escape, resulting in a painful death. In the meantime, the trauma that this could cause to the mouse will cause it to urinate and deficate on themselves and the trap. Not only is this cruel in and of itself, but it is extremely unsanitary as it could lead to the spread of the hantavirus.
While basic snap traps are powerful, and box-covered traps are even more potent, a step above all of those simpler trapping devices is the Rat Zapper Ultra Rat Trap. Operating on four D-size batteries, this thin device fits conveniently alongside walls with its rectangular shape. You simply bait the inside with peanut butter, flip the on-switch and allow the Zapper to do its trick.
Electronic Zapper Rat Trap Advantages – Simple to use, rat or mouse is hidden inside chamber after death so it is not visible.  Flashing red light alerts to a kill.  Only trap that kills both mice and large rats.
Ideal if you don’t wish to deal with the disposal of dead mice and rodents. This model is designed to be reused multiple times for years. It can be opened, and refilled with bait periodically. Its pet-safe design means pets (and kids) won’t easily access the bait.
For all you skeptics, don’t worry this works! Last week found a rat in my back porch, tried to chase it out of the building but hid behind the stairs. I tried to trap it and even leave the back door open, hoping it would leave. Then one day it was back upstairs in my back porch, chased it down the the stairs and even made barricades hoping it would leave the building, to no resolution. Then I decided to order this product and research the reviews, what’s the worst that can happen, lose $10? One week later I got the product, read the instructions, put some peanut butter on the bait cup, set the trap overnight and went to bed. The next day after coming from work, I opened the basement door to find the rat CAPTURED and DEAD!. This product is the real deal. See for yourself! Not sure if I would reuse the trap as some would after this picture.
When an infestation persists, one of the more effective methods of elimination involves getting rats accustomed to traps before setting them.  To introduce a trap, place it in an active area but don’t set it. Allow rats to feed off this “safe” trap for a day or two. Once the critters have accepted this object as part of their regular turf, bait the trap again, but set it up to snap the next rat that crosses its path.
Using the proper bait can make your rat trapping more effective, but it will still be useless if you haven’t selected the right types of traps and laced them correctly. You should always opt for snap traps since these are highly effective and will kill the rats instantly, making them a humane method. Glue traps are inhumane and not as effective and live cage traps require you to relocate the rat, which is a sure death sentence since these rodents keep to a small area. In addition to placing the traps correctly, you also need to use enough. Start with a dozen traps at a minimum since rats are social creatures.
If you are squeamish about bloody mouse carcasses, then this easy-to-deploy plastic and steel trap is an ideal choice. Simply squeeze the conveniently designed lipped-handle back, and the trap is ready for use. Its large bait area makes it simple to place your choice of bait.
How it works – Plastic rat traps work by suffocating the rat, not by a crushing blow from a thick heavy wire.  After capture, the plastic lid squeezes tighter and tighter and the rat cannot breathe.  As a result the rat suffocates – usually within minutes.  The air literally gets squeezed out of it’s lungs.
Dealing with large rodent is no easy task. They are very destructive and can cost thousands of dollars of damage to your home. Sometimes, they nest in the walls and then cut holes in the walls to make easy access points. They can make a mess in cabinets, pantries and even climb into bed with you. If you have children or pets in the home; the problems can be even more extreme. When you have an atypical problem, just any old trap won’t do. The products here have all been tested and found to be perfect for the home or office needs. They are so powerful they can work on a farm or in the middle of the city. Rats these days the pests are very savvy and it takes a product that is one step ahead to catch them.
This black and orange trap by Good Nature New Zealand is quite common in the market. Consumers love its automatic nature that resets the trap after every kill, and you no longer have to keep a close eye on the trap. They also love the electronic counter that shows the number of rats killed as well as the toxic-free nature that makes it safe for pets and children. It measures 8.5 x 6 x 3 inches, weighs 1.4 pounds, and has a canister with a capacity of killing up to 24 rats.
Trying to figure out exactly what is the best bait for mouse traps can be difficult, especially if you are not getting the results you wanted. However, using the insider information above – as well as some good old-fashioned common sense – you should have no trouble getting great results and getting rid of mice fast.
Glue Mouse Traps: These come as either glue trays or glue boards, which contain scented sticky substances that attract rodents to step into them. Once the mouse has stepped onto the sticky surface, any attempt to release itself will further draw it onto the board/tray, permanently sealing its fate.
Place the bait in the center of a 2-door trap. You can either position the bait directly on the trigger plate or hang it from the top of the trap. Position it away from the trap walls so that it is unreachable from outside of the trap.
To remove the glue from floors or other nonporous surfaces, try oil if the surface won’t be damaged, or use turpentine, paint thinner, or Goo Be Gone, or similar product. Test an inconspicuous area first. Let the solvent sit for several minutes, wipe it off with a dry cloth, then wash with mild detergent.