ABoth rat traps are made by Victor and both are very durable and strong. The Victor M326 has a larger bait pedal that resembles cheese (though it can be baited with anything), is easier to set then normal traps, and also has a sensitivity setting that will prevent the trap from snapping due to vibrations in the environment, such as those caused by heavy machinery. The Victor M200 is the traditional wooden rat trap.
Mice either feast on the peanut butter on the trap and go on their merry way or when we have caught a mouse it’s still alive flipping around stuck in the trap. The last one ended up across our dining room. We had to do a search and rescue for it. We set it free and hopped away like nothing happened. We did catch/kill one but none since. Very disappointed in this product. If I can locate the receipt I’ll call customer service. In the 21st century it shouldn’t be this hard to kill a mouse.
Many companies—including CVS, Dollar Tree, Rite Aid, and Walgreens—have stopped selling glue traps, and many other businesses have stopped using the  traps after hearing from concerned customers. Unfortunately, some companies continue to sell these vile devices.
This set up is genius on paper. It would allow me to catch multiple varmints without having to re-bait or reset the trap. Set it and forget. But in real life, you’re going to need a bigger bucket – or smaller rats.
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Maybe if you just put a thin line of pb around the can, they would have to reach further and spin off the can. That was one big rat. The ones that got into my house were about 10 inches, nose to tail.
Useless….Managed to set it once…and tried to use it again and would not set…Went on to the next one…everytime I got it set and placed it as gently as humanely possible..it would spring..Finally threw them all out and resolved myself to making friends with my mouse. I have named Him ” Al”
We had field mice come in, bought a plug in repellant, we put poison down and got rid of them. We kept the repellant plugged in since this was 3years ago. Now, for the past few evenings we have heard noise in the loft. Thinking it could be a squirrel we went and had a look. Going by droppings could be a rat. No damage so far so put poison in, but wondering the plug in could be working. Also, it works through the electrics in your home. Hopefully sonic noise driving it crazy.
You cut a hole out of the top of the shoebox and tape two pieces of paper to form a trap door. We placed a little bit of cracker crumbs on our trapped doors with some peanut butter smeared very lightly to prevent it from weighing the door down and it worked great.
You’ll find a lot of conflicting advice about this.  I’ve found four things that seem to work  well : peanut butter, cheese, bacon bits and mashed up cat food.  You don’t need a lot of it – on this trap a smear will work well.
• Use peanut butter on the back of the wall like they say to. I have read several replies to reviews by the manufacturer that putting items in the bottom can mess up the sensor and create a false shock..I had put a bit of a nut / dried fruit / chocolate chip mixture the first night and the next day it definitely seemed something successfully walked in there and wasnt killed (mud tracks)
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An electric rat trap is a simple device that electrocutes rodents, effectively killing them immediately. A homemade rat trap that is electrified can be used only indoors, out of the reach of children and pets.
Unfortunately, after several years of the single life, he, somehow attracted a female rat, that was released by someone or escaped captivity. Now, I have 3 babies running around my garage, as if they are at the park. So, I have to capture them and their mother and take them to another home. Hopefully, I can find someone to adopt them. If not, I have a good, safe location to release them in. I may take Kar-Kat too, because, rats are family oriented and I don’t think he would be happy without his family. Once again, my skills, from my days in Special Forces, will come in handy, as I construct a trap, that will capture all of them.
There is one, having tried many that actually works here in Spain. It is a free app for iPhones and iPads and you can download it from iTunes here https://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/ultra-sonic-mosquito-repeller/id1116453268?mt=8
So as you can see here, you take an empty toilet paper roll and crease one side so it fits flat along the edge of a table or counter top. Balancing may be difficult at first, but that’s the concept to making this work. Once you find that sweet spot, place some peanut butter or some cracker crumbs at the end of the tube. The key is to making sure you have a tall enough bucket or bin below to where the mouse will fall as it reaches the end of the tube. Simple, cheap, and efficient. My kind of mouse trap.
Location, Location, Location Set the baited trap in areas where you have noticed high levels of rodent activity. Rodents tend to travel along walls, so placement in this location often works best. For maximum effectiveness, use multiple traps, placed at 2 to 3 foot intervals to increase results. Place the trap with the baited end flush against the wall.
This is an innovative take on an old idea. Inspired by an antique mousetrap that operated as a one-way door, the mice are baited to travel through a hole, but are unable to return through the same entrance due to wires protruding from the hole. Sounds gnarly, but actually the wires leave the mouse completely unharmed through it’s decent through the hole. It’s only when the mouse lands, does it realize that the wires prevent it from returning. This is a simple mousetrap that can easily be converted into a trap for larger rodents and can be used multiple times.
Victor® Easy Set® Mouse Trap Product Details Do you want to know more helpful details about the Victor® Easy Set® Mouse Trap? Take a closer look at the in-depth specifications for this product. Complete Product Details »
I have a huge rat problem going on… They are in the crawl space above my kitchen having a grand ol’ time and living quite comfortably. I didnt notice the screen covers on the vents have holes in them and they just climb the stucco to get up there – this was pointed out to me by a pest control inspector. Worst of all there is no way for a person to access this area to get them out, nor poison them and have them die up there, potentially.
• neighborhood activism: get your neighbors involved, as the problem is very unlikely limited to your property… rats eat dog feces, compost, grille remains, bird seed… and just about anything, but, in our neighborhood, they were feeding (or are still feeding) at a neighbor that does not clean up after their dog and a neighbor composting… and, living at another neighbor that has let their garage and yard go to squaller…. thus, our yard was a traffic route between feeding and nesting. but, it is a city wide problem, as we have learned via nextdoor website for our city… so, neighbor involvement is a must, as you may eliminate them from living or feeding on your or adjacent property, but they will still be in the area and will likely return. if you do not know your neighbors and do not want to do the door-to-door thing, then join nextdoordotcom for your city and post something like “Unwanted Neighbors – Rats!” … this is how we learned that it is a pervasive, city-wide problem and we were both receiving and disseminating information via this site… though i appreciate that most of us no longer “need” neighbors in this era, you do NEED your neighbors as allies in this war!
Q.I have been using your snap traps for 45 years. I just bought another package. I cannot get the snap to lock down or not for long. When it does lock, it goes off in my hand or within seconds of setting it down. What is going on?
Found mouse Droppings in a couple Kitchen drawers (gross), under kitchen Sink, and inside the bottom of a couple kitchen cabinets. Foam-filled & caulked the hell out of Rental unit Kitchen. Rat poison & Victor mouse traps all over the place now. Mice ate all the Poison set in attic. One of these Victor mouse traps walked away (disappeared) from where I’d put it in the attic, so I set 2 more identical traps. Next day – one dead Deer Mouse. Whole house filled with poison & these mouse traps. Yes, they’re sensitive, they have to be to catch a tiny mouse. Other brand Glue strips & more Expensive (plastic) no-touch mouse traps haven’t caught anything.
You will need a 2-liter soda bottle, barbwire, glue, toothpick and bait (peanut butter, bacon, sunflower seeds). Before making the rat trap diy, put on latex or vynil gloves to avoid leaving human scent. Take a 2-liter soda bottle and cut 2 inches off the top. The opening will be the entrance.
I’ve had one of these in my kitchen for 2 yrs, didn’t know that pests can get used to the sound. Nevertheless I bought a few more of them for some other rooms in my home. I’ve been seeing a lot of spiders in the house, so I will know if it works on them. I do recommend them, no ants, roaches that I seen. I do think that I will unplug them for a short while and then plug them in again.
We apologize for this experience. How much bait was used? When baiting the trap it is important to remember a little goes a long way. We recommend baiting with a toothpick amount of peanut butter. Anything more than that, and the mouse may be able to eat the bait without getting caught in the trap.
If you have rats under your floorboards, then don’t panic! Having rats under floorboards stumps many people in finding the best way to get rid of them. This is why I have written about a number of ways you can make their lives very uncomfortable so that they leave you in peace.
Change of plans. This bucket trap may work for mice but not for this nemesis! As Roy Scheider, star of Jaws, said when he laid eyes on the shark, “Your going to need a bigger boat.” When dealing with Ratzilla and his kin, you’re going to need a bigger bucket!
Ordered two packs. I have been seeing a couple rats in kitchen so I thought I would try these traps over conventional traps. THEY DONT WORK. I have laid out the traps and wake up to find rat prints on the traps but NO rats.
Terrified rats and mice sometimes scream as they try to escape the glue. Glue traps rip patches of skin, fur, and feathers off the animals’ bodies as they struggle to get away, and many animals even chew off their own legs trying to free themselves.
For the best results, we recommend placing the trap along the wall where rodents primarily travel. The bait and trigger end of the mouse trap should be flush against the wall so that mice will be tempted to explore them. We recommend baiting the trap with a toothpick amount of peanut butter. Anything more than that, and the mice may be able to access the bait without setting off the trap.
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To set the trap, hold it vertically and make sure the yellow pedal is at about a 20 or 30 degree angle from the base. Then set the trap by hooking the metal bar under the lip of the yellow pedal. If you hook the left side of the pedal, the trap will be easier to set but slightly more difficult to trip. If you hook the right side, the trap will be more difficult to set but slightly easier to trip. For the best accuracy and outcome, we recommend setting the trap somewhere between these two settings.
Most important tip: I found that Rats got very inventive at licking or grabbing the peanut butter or bait from the airholes in back, so I just took an old metal box and blocked it so they had to go into the front to get the bait…. they still love the bait, they just aren’t able to steal it anymore.
​This is a long drawn out peep noise, it indicates severe protest and is generally most commonly heard when rats are fighting over something such as a tasty bit of food.  The rat with the food will attempt to defend it, squeaking in protest if any other rat approaches