Caddie is the pest-fighting feline at Catseye Pest Control. With more than 25 years experience fighting bugs, rodents and nuisance wildlife at residential and commercial properties, he knows the best ways to customize pest control methods to fix your pest problems and prevent future occurrences. When not battling bugs, Caddie can be found at many community events helping raise spirits and funds for local non-profits.
Pros: Low maintenance — not necessary to check for dead rats, as the rats will leave the trap and die elsewhere. Can be left out semi-permanently if poison is consistently refilled. These traits make poison traps good choices for outdoor rat control.
Only unfortunate thing is, if you use these outside near areas that little birds congregate, they are sensitive enough that the birds can sometimes set them off. Which doesn’t end well for the bird sad to say.. But, I usually pour one out for the dead birdie if that happens, and move on..
Wrap a piece of construction paper over the top of the can. Hold the paper in place using a rubber band wrapped around the rim of the can. Take an extendable blade and cut an “X” in the top of the construction paper, stopping about one inch from the edge of the can at each of the four lines.[5]
Dog poop is not at the top of the list of preferred foods for rats. It may eat it if there is no other food available, but I agree it will have a tendency to encourage them in contrast to repelling them. In addition, dog poop is not very hygenic to have about the place. Have you tried contacting your local authority to see if they have any policies in place relating to this issue?
A: Be sure to check traps daily and replace as needed. Wear gloves when disposing of rodents. You can also disinfect the area with a household cleaner if you are concerned that there is a possible threat to your health.
Electronic rat traps are one of the best solutions for a no-touch, no-see experience. Victor® electric rat traps deliver high-voltage lethal shocks to eliminate rats in your home. Just one electronic rat trap by Victor® has the power to eliminate a small rodent infestation. An easy indicator light will let you know right away that you have trapped a rat.
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We apologize for the experience and would be happy to assist. This trap has both a sensitive and a firm setting. We recommend putting the trap in place on the floor before setting it. Please give our Consumer Relations Team a call at 1-855-5-VICTOR (1-855-584-2867) for further assistance.
When an infestation persists, one of the more effective methods of elimination involves getting rats accustomed to traps before setting them.  To introduce a trap, place it in an active area but don’t set it. Allow rats to feed off this “safe” trap for a day or two. Once the critters have accepted this object as part of their regular turf, bait the trap again, but set it up to snap the next rat that crosses its path.
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Rat zappers consist of an electrified tunnel that electrocutes the rat when it takes the bait. You don’t have to see the dead rat, and you don’t have to touch the dead rat. Just empty the rat zapper into the garbage when the catch light is blinking. (Don’t throw the zapper away.) There are no chemicals, no poisons, and the electric trap can catch several dozen rats before it needs new batteries or a fresh charge. You place rat zappers in the same places you place spring traps, but out of reach of children or pets who might want to see what is inside.
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Mouse traps can be a little bit expensive, especially if you have a serious mouse problem. Fortunately, it’s easy to make cheap, effective mousetraps with everyday items. The crafty homeowner can turn cardboard rolls, plastic bottles, and coffee cans into homemade mousetraps.
Really try to hit those “high traffic” spots close to where the mice are living with the majority of your traps.  You can also set a few along their pathways to and from their nesting zone.  This is almost always going to be along counter tops, baseboards, and in cupboards.
Live Catch Rat Trap Tips:  Use a piece of old carpet and place under the trap to collect urine and droppings.  Use this piece of carpet on future trapping missions to attract other rats and animals.  Be sure to wear gloves. Old carpet can be kept in a trash bag.
This type of trap is perfect for a brave or arrogant mouse who thinks he has the run of the house. If mice have become accustomed to human activity and brazenly scurry about even in the presence of many people, you’ll be able to snap this trap closed on them with little trouble.
This stuff does work, but only if you handle it like the comnercial manufacturers… they MELT it to deposit it on their glue boards. Don’t bother trying any other method. Get trays ready that you want to use… cheap baking sheets/trays from thrift stores with a half-inch or more rim work great. Melt the whole can over a gas stove burner turned as low as it goes… it takes a while. I don’t know if an electric stove can be turned low enough… you don’t want to burn it. Use a cheap plastic soup ladle that you won’t need for anything else to transfer it to the baking sheets.
If you’d like to buy it and you live in America, clicking on any of the pictures will take you to Amazon USA, who sell it at the best price I’ve been able to find. If you live in the UK, see this link.
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If rats aren’t searching for food or nest building materials, then they are probably in their nest, which would be in a quiet space anywhere in your home, garden or sewer. Rats are most active at sunrise and sunset. They will also avoid humans so tend to come out when you are not around. The reason why rats eat your shoes could be because they are made of leather. However, rats will eat anything. They have a very efficient digestive system.
Trapper T-Rex Rat Snap Trap –  The Trapper T-Rex Rat trap works very well at capturing rats while not being of any immediate danger to older children or pets. If they happen to trip the trap, it generally scares them while not doing any real damage to tiny fingers.
Position rat traps to maximize the chances of rats to cross over the traps during their natural travels along their runways. Set snap traps extended at a right angle from a wall with the trigger end almost touching the wall. If rat traps are set parallel to the wall, set them in pairs with triggers situated to intercept the rats from either direction.
I set this glue trap for this mouse cause it was destroying my stuff every night. It was successfull but was bad as it when the mouse gets stuck to the trap it cant escape and it dies from hunger, and weakness from trying continuously from freeing itself and it dies after 4-5 days of struggle. This stuff is inhumane I felt so bad for the poor little thing that i freed it, which was the hardest thing to do, and left in and open field.
Trying to figure out exactly what is the best bait for mouse traps can be difficult, especially if you are not getting the results you wanted. However, using the insider information above – as well as some good old-fashioned common sense – you should have no trouble getting great results and getting rid of mice fast.
Those who don’t want to kill mice prefer to use electronic repellers. It’s a human and cut-rate way. For example, the set of 4 Ultrasonic Pest Repellers by Pest Venator costs only ~$28.89 Check the current price.
Consider moving the mouse traps to another location where you have mouse activity. If setting up your mouse traps directly next to the high traffic areas is not working, try setting up the traps adjacent to or just a bit away from these high traffic areas.
Glue traps are completely indiscriminate. PETA fields calls on a regular basis from distraught individuals who have discovered birds, lizards, snakes, bats, chipmunks, squirrels, and even their own animal companions hopelessly stuck to these sticky boards.
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When the trap is battery powered the shocking power gradually gets weaker after every use.  At some point (after 10-15 kills) there will still be some charge in the batteries but the trap won’t kill the rats.   The number of “zaps” you will get is going to depend on the quality of your batteries.   It is not easy to tell when the batteries need to be replaced.
Havahart Live Catch Rat Trap –  Trapping live animals can be tricky.  First – it takes “pre-baiting” in which the trap is wired open so that it can’t close.  Then it requires a careful plan of strategy to “catch” the rat.  Live traps for rats are exactly the same as the larger animal traps for rabbits, skunks and squirrels.  The Havahart Live Catch Rat Trap captures the rat alive so that it can be relocated and released to another area.
The modified snap trap approach is a little more difficult to make but can provide good results; A rat snap trap, coffee can, small gauge wire and some hardware cloth with some screws is what you’ll need. First attach the trap to the can by screwing the wood just under the tongue (trigger) to the front of the can. Next cut the cloth about a 1/2 inch bigger than the size of the can. Place the cloth on the back side of the can and mold the edges slightly down around the edges. The concave or protruding side up, use your wire to attach it to the spring loaded snap wire of the trap. The long trigger release arm goes through the cloth and sets the trigger. Test the trap out to make sure the release arm does not block the cloth from covering the entire mouth of the can when it shuts. Bait the back of the can with nuts or peanut butter and set the trap. (you can also attach a board for stability to the back of the can) Catch the mouse alive and release him away from the home.
When you are dealing with a lot of rats like you will get with a typical attic infestation then it is better to set out about a dozen traps at once.  If you only set out one or two traps then the remaining rats will figure out that something is going on and become very cautious.
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Its green light indicator blinks when it kills an animal. According to the company, with one set of batteries, this device can kill up to 50 rats. You can check this article about Victor Electronic Rat Traps, you’ll get some useful information.
The Victor Electronic Rat Trap is easy-to-use. Start by inserting four ‘C’ batteries into the battery compartment and replacing the cover. Then, using a Q-tip or toothpick (to avoid leaving your scent), add an enticing rat snack like peanut butter or dry pet food through the hole in the back wall of the trap. Place the rat trap where there are signs of rodent activity. Since rats typically travel along the edge of a room, the trap can also be placed lengthwise along the wall with the bait side closest to the wall. Flip the switch to ‘on’, and it’s good to go—a green light will blink once and a short buzzing sound will be heard to verify it’s working.
One of the best ways to deal with a rat infestation is to trap them out. Unfortunately, rats are very intelligent and they learn quickly. If one rat sees another get trapped, it will never venture near that trap again, so you may have to employ each and every type on this list to fully take care of the problem. Unless you are dealing with one or two rats that have just entered your living space, the chances are that only one type of trap is not going to solve the problem. That said, the rat traps on this list were selected because they are the easiest to set and place, easy to empty and are highly effective.
Rats that regularly find their way to our dwellings are indeed annoying and nasty pests. Unfortunately, they can surmount all the hurdles and gnaw through everything to get into seemingly impenetrable, hard-to-reach places. Moreover, they transfer serious diseases, attack humans and pets, contaminate food and make a mess. Rat control measures involve traditional and modern methods of extermination, such as sealing up the homes, using rat predators, snap traps, poisonous baits, rat zappers, glue boards and others. In all cases, the best option is to start from the removal of mess (where they find their shelter), water and food sources. You can purchase different types of snap traps or make your own homemade rat trap to get rid of coming pests.
The best bait for your trap may depend on the species of your rats. In North America, two species are most prevalent: the Norway rat and the roof rat. The Norway rat is usually found at or below ground level in burrows, basements, sewers and dumpsters. The roof rat is usually found higher up – in trees, cliffs, attics and higher levels of a home or warehouse.
Don’t want to keep resetting the trap? Try skewering a plastic bottle and positioning it over a bucket so it spins when the mouse runs out to get the peanut butter like in the video below (skip to 1:25 to see it in action).
Electronic Mouse Traps: Battery powered, these devices use bait to attract and catch the mouse inside them. Then, they kill the critter by electrocuting it. The current delivers a humane kill, especially when compared with other types of rat traps available today. So, if you are an animal activist, then this model is the right one for you!
Remember: Glue traps cause slow, agonizing deaths for the animals they trap. Never use glue traps, and share this with your family and friends so that they will learn the truth about these vile devices, too. Mice and rats are intelligent, sensitive animals who are just as capable of pain and suffering as the cats and dogs we share our homes with.
There are several alternatives to using mouse glue traps. Snap traps work by triggering a mechanism designed to break the mouse’s neck. Though they pose the risk of causing physical injury when tampered with by children and pets, they are inexpensive, can be reused in most cases and quickly trap and kill mice without inhumane drawn-out suffering. If safety is an issue with regard to children or pets, you can even purchase covered snap traps.
These are the traditional traps which are being used for years. These remind you about the famous cartoon show, Tom and Jerry. In these, we set a bait to attract the rodents, and when they try to steal, it triggers the trap and a strong & heavy steel bar lands on them with a huge force.
I know this is an old post, but you actually want the stairway to heaven in line with the wire. The vermin will attempt to high wire in an effort to get to the bait. If it doesn’t make it to the can, it loses its balance and will try to gain foot on the can. Then it’s bye bye Ratzilla!
Caution: Please attempt this only in the event that you cannot find a wildlife rehabilitator or veterinarian. Wild animals can be dangerous at any time when handled, but especially so when they are trapped and defending themselves. Please do not attempt this if you are not comfortable with the procedure described.
Snap traps should be placed in areas of highest rodent activity. These areas can be determined by inspecting the premises for the highest concentration of rodent signs. Look for fecal pellets, tracks, runways, gnawing damage, grease marks, burrows, urine stains (made visible by a black or ultraviolet flashlight), rodent sounds, and live or dead rodents. High activity areas may include darkened corners, along walls, and behind appliances or other large objects.
Trusted by thousands of users, Havahart Animal Trap is made of rust-resistance wire mesh with steel reinforcements. It’s properly galvanized which maximizes its resistivity towards rust and corrosion. This is one of the best outdoor rat traps on the market.
The Bell Labs T-Rex comes in a set of four and can be placed alone or in pairs near baseboards, corners, along walls, or in any spaces where rodents are likely to travel. Its bait cup can be removed, refilled, and replaced between settings.
There are two distinguishable rats that you might notice in your home: black rats and brown rats. Black rats are vegetarians, so they eat only plant foods – while brown rats eat both meat and plant foods. You know what the perfect plant food that both of them will love is? That’s right. Peanut butter. Not only does it fit with a rat’s diet, but it is also sticky, making the rat more likely to disturb as well as set off the trap. Who knew that peanut butter would be good for something other than eating with a spoon?
One of the main features that customers appreciate about the Rat Zapper is that you don’t have to handle the pest to dispose of it. Who wants to be nose to nose with a dead rat? All you need to do is simply release the creature into the trash, and you never have to make contact with it. Forget the old glue boards that leave live rodents stuck in your space. The old snap traps also don’t work as well as they should. The Rat Zapper will shine a bright red light to let you know that a rodent has entered the chamber. You simply dispose of the vermin and reset the unit for the next one that passes through.
Place a trash can beneath the tube. The can should be wide enough to accommodate the falling tube. Place a small pillow, soft cloth, or pad on the bottom of the can to cushion the tube and mouse who will soon be trapped within.