Once the wire is through both ends, make sure the wire extends a few inches past the bucket on both edges. With the threaded can centered over the bucket, crimp the wire at both ends of the can. This will keep the can sliding to the edge of the bucket which would defeat the trap.
Ammonia-soaked cotton balls or rags will drive rodents out (they hate the smell). Place them in areas where rodents, droppings, or nests have been seen, and be sure to give the animals a few days to leave. Then, to keep unwelcome “visitors” out, seal entry points using foam sealant, steel wool, hardware cloth, or metal flashing. If any rodents need to be removed from homes, this can be done with humane box traps.
About Victor® Victor® has been a trusted name in rodent control since 1898. Since the invention of the spring-based trap over 115 years ago, we have been continuously striving to manufacture innovative, quality products that keep your family safe from the dangers of rodents. With a variety of electronic traps, snap traps and repellents available, Victor® has a broad selection of products to meet the needs of consumers. More About Victor® »
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Apply a small amount of high-protein bait, such as peanut butter, hazelnut spread or bacon to the yellow plastic pedal on the trap as shown. Use a Q-tip, toothpick or another tool to bait to avoid transferring your scent to the trap.
Glue traps never work to keep animals away long-term. The following evening, I entered the kitchen to find the same dirty and disheveled mouse stuck to a new glue trap. Despite my efforts, he wasn’t able to survive the stress of a second entrapment.
You are sweating, your heart racing. It’s as if you are set up on one of the biggest Pope & Young whitetails coming in to bow range. All of a sudden, the mouse reaches out, grabs the cheese, steps off the trap, of course looks at you and gives you a wink, then heads on his merry way.
A: Remove the small staple holding the locking bar to the wood base. Place bait inside curl found at the end of the bait pedal.  Pull back bow and hold down with thumb. With other hand, engage the curved portion locking bar under the small, V-shaped lip on the bait pedal.
I am a believer. I use a three stage approach: warfarin in baits outside and a combo of glue traps and a single Victor trap. After two days, I got my first one in the kitchen with the Victor. Placement is the key. If you see mouse poops, that is a good place along the wall in a dark corner. Disposal is easy and it never got soiled with the first mouse. But if I get another mouse kill, I will clean it out to be sure it is attractive with the peanut butter on the bait cup.
Determine what types of rodents are in your home. Determine rodent type based on the rodent dropping you find. Mice droppings are a ¼ inch long with pointy ends, and rat droppings are ½-¾ inch with relatively rectangular or sausage like shapes.[1] Squirrel droppings are roughly 3/8 inch with rounded edges, and can be recognized by the fact that they lighten in color over time.[2]
The rat, enticed into the box by a yummy treat at the entrance and smeared on the back wall , steps on a metal plate.  This triggers an electric shock which – as long as the batteries are full or nearly full – kills within a couple of seconds.
With our last hopes, we found an article online about a rat spray that was said to make miracles. We thought it was impossible that a $5 spray would do any good, but what the heck, we’ve place our order. In two days, our package arrived, and in the next day the rats were.
Be sure to thoroughly clean the snap traps between uses. Rats will smell “death” on a trap that’s recently killed another rat. I have the black plastic snap traps. After removing the dead rat (triple wrapped in plastic and put in the deep freeze until garbage day), I drop the trap into a bucket with about a litre of very hot water and some bleach; soak for a few hours, scrub with a brush and then, if you want, rewash it (I actually put mine in the dishwasher, after a thorough bleaching and scrubbing). It should just smell like clean plastic when it comes out of the dishwasher. Re-bait it, put it where the rats are active, let it do its thing, and repeat! 🙂 I am sorry that I have to kill these buggers, but if they’re in my house, they need to be killed. My house is 108 years old and has all kinds of secret places for rodents to come and go, but this year (2016), here on Vancouver Island, there is a huge rat problem so I’ve become very cutthroat about killing them.
For me, these traps have to be baited properly in order to catch rats. I use peanut butter, but I don’t just dab some on the copper tab. I use a qtip with the tip soaked in peanut butter, cut the tip off the stick, and lodge that under the point on the trigger plate. I then dab some on top of that to entice the rats. Once the rats run across the trap they will try to nibble the qtip tip that is lodged under the trigger plate, then snap! Rats are smart, if you just dab some on the trigger plate itself, they will just lick it off, evading the trap. If you bait the plate where they have to nibble at it, you’ll get great results everytime!
Seriously….most insects cannot hear. Not at all….Crickets, katydids, cicadas and mosquitoes can hear sound. A few moths and flying mantids can also hear the high-pitched sounds bats make and avoid the bat, which is pretty cool! Beyond that, however, most insects are deaf, such as roaches, beetles, ants, dragonflies, etc. How does anyone actually believe these claims?
Do you know the best way to catch rats using a sticky trap? Try to put some bait (peanut butter or bacon) on the floor inside a circle of sticky tape. That way they have to cross the sticky tape to get to the food – it works!
Learn More About Rodent Control At times, rodent problems can seem like a never-ending battle. But, believe it or not, you can get the upper hand. Understanding your enemy – their habits and preferences – is the first step of successful elimination. Check out some of our great resources to find out more about controlling your rodent problems.
Everyone wants to build a better mouse/rat trap. The only problem is that most of them don’t work as well as the old standby. Yes, they are a bit tricky to bait without setting off, but they sure do the job when properly set up.
After reading many interesting comments, thought I should share my experience. I have used two bigger ultrasonic pest repellent units (Black & Decker EP1100-A) for last ten plus years for rodents and similar larger pests – One in backyard and one in garage; and didn’t have a single rodent or similar pest anywhere near the house. I don’t have anything to prove the cause and effect relationship, but we do think it works, at least for larger pests. We also have a few smaller pluggable units inside house and never had a single cockroach in the house.
Rats are smart and they are inherently cautious.  Kill as many as you can at once before they get wise to your plans.  If the rats figure out how to avoid the traps then you will need to switch to poisons.
Position rat traps to maximize the chances of rats to cross over the traps during their natural travels along their runways. Set snap traps extended at a right angle from a wall with the trigger end almost touching the wall. If rat traps are set parallel to the wall, set them in pairs with triggers situated to intercept the rats from either direction.
A more recent invention is the electronic rat trap. Rats have the unusual ability to restart their hearts after minor electric shocks (natural selection from decades of chewing through household and car wiring!) electronic devices must provide a longer term exposure to voltage to ensure a kill.
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We had a bad rat problem that sounded like they were doing olympics in the attic every night! My wife bought the Pestacator 2000 from Home Depot. She plugged it in and that night not a sound. We have been rat free for 5 plus years.
With each kill, the indicator light on top of the trap blinks green for up to 24 hours, and when the batteries run low or need replacing, the light will blink red. In addition to at-a-glance monitoring, the Victor Electronic Rat Trap offers a hygienic, no-touch, no-see disposal—simply tip to safely dump the dead rodent directly into the trash.
Okay, okay, so maybe you want to make something that doesn’t require any tools or drilling or snipping. You’ve still got a whole bunch of options! Like for example, this neat cable-tie trap. We know it requires a tool, but it’s not what you think! In this case the tool is being used as a weight, which is what pulls the cable tie together, essentially trapping the rat.
There’s a bug spray thats available at kmart. Spray around the outside of house. Wont hurt your pets, dogs , cats ,fish, lizards, Then spray at base boards on inside of house. NO spiders , bugs, When the bugs come out there a pain. those mosquito plants work. And I used Bell &Howell Pest Repellers as far as I could tell they were working with the mice. Bugs come out from April to October. But I used Decon for my mice. Put pest Repellers in every room of house & basement. Use inside & outside spray as needed.
Alternatively, you can also use cat’s litter. However, if the rat is infected with toxoplasmosis, it strangely may actually be attracted to cats and cat litter (a very weird side effect of the disease)
This trap is smaller than the metal ones we’ve used in the past but improved in some ways. I especially like the peanut butter bait cup and the way it’s located so the critters can smell but not eat it till they’ve scurried inside. Our vehicles seem to invite mice and rats into their engine compartments for nest building and this trap is small enough to rest inside in a variety of places. I sourced the cardboard container to make a sign that I hang from the steering wheel as a reminder to remove it before driving off. Overall this is the least messy way of disposing of dead pests you’re likely to find..