I think I will try the bucket rat trap with stairway to heaven, but made the spindle withe the can on an inch or so lower. My reasoning is that if it’s too high they could just eat away, but lower down they would need to lean in more and hopefully fall in more easily
Notice to all the posters here that use these electronic repellers in apartment buildings. YOU’RE DRIVING ALL YOUR PESTS INTO THE ADJOINING APARTMENT, AND WE DON’T LIKE IT. Have a little consideration for you neighbors. If you insist on keeping food out, dirty dishes in the sink, or a filthy apartment, KILL the bugs and rodents. Don’t send them nextdoor.
When you are free, you can create a default mouse trap and catch the mouse. But, also keep in mind that your family is your family and that they won’t get mad if you just tell them the problem. If that is not working, then catch the mouse yourself.
Wait for the mouse to fall in. The mouse will run up the ruler to reach the food on the opposite side of the coffee can, then fall into the can when the apparently solid surface gives way beneath it. You’ll know the trap has been sprung if you see the bait you laid is no longer there, or if the construction paper has been partially torn. Check the can for the mouse.
I am a believer. I use a three stage approach: warfarin in baits outside and a combo of glue traps and a single Victor trap. After two days, I got my first one in the kitchen with the Victor. Placement is the key. If you see mouse poops, that is a good place along the wall in a dark corner. Disposal is easy and it never got soiled with the first mouse. But if I get another mouse kill, I will clean it out to be sure it is attractive with the peanut butter on the bait cup.
I have been using a rat repeller from Pestrol in my shed, as I have been seeing droppings all over the place. Since installing the device I am yet to see one dropping or a rat in a place. It may not work for everyone, but it did for me, so I am glad I tried something so I dont have to use traps or poison. I have read up on some of the scientific research, and it all depends on what frequency the unit is set to. I think some devices are not as effective as they don’t have a correct setting that rats or mice can here. So if you want to try a unit, make sure you do a research on the company.
A. If you set out glue traps singly rather than in pairs, larger rodents can do a long jump over the trap. They might just get one of their hind paws stuck in the glue. They can drag the trap back to a hole in the wall and pull it off, or, in a few cases, they will even gnaw off their paw to escape. It’s kinder to the animal to put out two traps, not just one, with an inch (2.5 cm) gap between them.
Read our library of Frequently Asked Questions to find immediate answers about rodent traps, bait types, trap placements, repellents and much more. Solve your rodent problems.If you have a question not answered below, please feel free to contact us.
• multi-front approach: utilize some additional artillery besides these Victor traps: we are using outdoor bait boxes with “Bromethalin” bait, so they will eat and go back to their nests and perish in a few days…
The manufacturer doesn’t recommend using peanut butter, but if you insist on it like I do, they recommend that you smear it on the inside of the rear metal plate between the holes, so it doesn’t ooze onto the metal plate or electronics. That’s what I did. I baited the trap and *LEFT IT TURNED OFF* for a few days so the rats would get comfortable with it, as recommended. When I checked the trap after a few days, they had polished it clean of peanut butter.
Top Tip : I bought this trap after I’d dealt with quite a bad rat infestation problem in my chicken run. It takes out one rat at a time, so if you have evidence of a large number of rats you need to get them under control first. See here for options and further advice.
A: Place the trap inside a small cardboard box that has enough height to allow the trap to snap. Cut a 3″ x 3 opening on two opposite sides of the box. Place the box with a baited trap in a known rodent path.
4. Swing the arm bar over the kill bar and latch the bent end of the arm bar into the notch on the pedal. Slowly release pressure from the kill bar until the arm bar has fully engaged and holds the kill bar securely.
I just bought a Ultrasonic Pest repeller..I am wondering if it gets rid of “earwigs” down here in FLorida. I get a lot of them come up to cracks of my front door and back sliding glass doors. I have a plug outlet near my front door..maybe a good place to plug it in. Will it keep them from coming undr my front door if the device is just inside the front door?…also…Had a small snake outside my front door..does it get rid of them too?
Known for the most innovative rodent control products on the market, Victor Electronic Rat Trap is the only rat trap with a patented 3-plate design to prevent escapes. Easy to use, the trap is simply baited, placed against the wall and turned on. The trap uses advanced smart circuit technology to sense when a rodent enters the units. Once the rodent is inside, the system delivers a humane, high-voltage shock to effectively kill the rat or mouse in seconds. A green indicator light illuminates when a rat has been exterminated and is ready for removal. Rodents can then be dumped directly into the trash for no-touch, no-view mouse control. Since rats have the ability to restart their hearts after an electrical shock, the Victor Electronic Rat Trap applies shock for 2 minutes ensuring high kill rates. Additionally, the Victor Electronic Rat Trap is the only trap that automatically resets after an irregular escape. Safe for use anywhere in the home, the Victor Electronic Rat Trap is ideal for attics, garages, basements, sheds, and kitchens. A lifetime investment, the Electronic Rat Trap is easy to clean and can be reused indefinitely. For effective rat control, one set of 4 ‘C’ batteries will eliminate up to 50 rats, and a red light indicates when batteries need replacing.
Battery operated, these so called “rat zappers” have a chamber in which food bait is placed, enticing the rat to enter. One popular model delivers a high voltage (8,500 volts) electric discharge of two minutes duration to ensure a kill. The electric shock rat traps claim a 100% kill rate and the ability to dispatch 50 rats per set of batteries. The electric trap’s enclosed chamber allows for disposal of rat remains without the need to touch the dead animal, it can be dumped directly into a trash receptacle unseen.
These devices are a bunch of BS they don’t work and I’m guessing some guy sits around typing these good comments. Don’t buy these pest devices waste of money. My comments won’t show up just be deleted.
Place the trap where you have seen signs of rodent activity or along the wall where rodents primarily travel. The end of the trap where the metal pedal is baited should be placed flush against the wall.
A lot of people are suspicious of whether home rat traps will really work or not. Anyway, the reality of the situation is that if you make them correctly. Also put them in the right areas of your home where there is high population of rodents. It is sometimes unclear why originally built rodent traps may not work to rid you of rats while homemade ones will work successfully, but it happens.
• neighborhood activism: get your neighbors involved, as the problem is very unlikely limited to your property… rats eat dog feces, compost, grille remains, bird seed… and just about anything, but, in our neighborhood, they were feeding (or are still feeding) at a neighbor that does not clean up after their dog and a neighbor composting… and, living at another neighbor that has let their garage and yard go to squaller…. thus, our yard was a traffic route between feeding and nesting. but, it is a city wide problem, as we have learned via nextdoor website for our city… so, neighbor involvement is a must, as you may eliminate them from living or feeding on your or adjacent property, but they will still be in the area and will likely return. if you do not know your neighbors and do not want to do the door-to-door thing, then join nextdoordotcom for your city and post something like “Unwanted Neighbors – Rats!” … this is how we learned that it is a pervasive, city-wide problem and we were both receiving and disseminating information via this site… though i appreciate that most of us no longer “need” neighbors in this era, you do NEED your neighbors as allies in this war!
We had mice in the kitchen and garage. I put one plug-in reller in the kitchen and two in the garage. After about a week, no more mice incidents at all. That was over a year ago. Now to tackle the backyard with more powerful models to see if that will be a success as well.
Swing the arm bar over the kill bar and latch the bent end of the arm bar into the notch on the metal pedal as shown. Slowly release pressure from the kill bar until the arm bar has fully engaged and holds the kill bar securely.
Designed for indoor use or anywhere it’s not exposed to outdoor elements, the reusable Victor Electronic Rat Trap provides years of effective rat control—perfect for attics, garages, basements, and sheds. The trap does not use any poisons or chemicals, but as with any electronic device, it should be used with caution around children and pets.
For me, these traps have to be baited properly in order to catch rats. I use peanut butter, but I don’t just dab some on the copper tab. I use a qtip with the tip soaked in peanut butter, cut the tip off the stick, and lodge that under the point on the trigger plate. I then dab some on top of that to entice the rats. Once the rats run across the trap they will try to nibble the qtip tip that is lodged under the trigger plate, then snap! Rats are smart, if you just dab some on the trigger plate itself, they will just lick it off, evading the trap. If you bait the plate where they have to nibble at it, you’ll get great results everytime!
In our warehouse we were having issues with mice not rats so we tried the mice traps sold by same company but the adhesive on the mice traps are too weak.So we went to the Rat size glue traps which uses a stronger adhesive. Place them out per instructions and place Peanut Butter in the middle of the traps and next business day caught multiple on each trap. Now no more mice.
I haven’t used them yet but I bought 5 of them for 2 dollars n some change each off eBay ….so I spent 11 dollars n change all together for 5 of them…..I got a new apartment. .the neighbor has a infestation of roaches..so there where roaches..and spiders..omg.. I used insect fogger in each room …a boric acid ..and roach gel in the corners and crevasses…I haven’t moved in yet ..even though I’ve only seen 1 roach everytime I visit…so I just hope these ultrasonic things work..and keep everything out ..I have a 1 year old..we can’t live in there until every insect is out
After reading many interesting comments, thought I should share my experience. I have used two bigger ultrasonic pest repellent units (Black & Decker EP1100-A) for last ten plus years for rodents and similar larger pests – One in backyard and one in garage; and didn’t have a single rodent or similar pest anywhere near the house. I don’t have anything to prove the cause and effect relationship, but we do think it works, at least for larger pests. We also have a few smaller pluggable units inside house and never had a single cockroach in the house.
Glue traps are dangerous to human health—in fact, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) and Health Canada caution against their use! Animals who are trapped on these devices often void their bowels, potentially exposing anyone who handles the traps to hantavirus.
Use lots and lots of traps. This is extremely important. Set more traps than you think you need. The number of rodents is almost certainly higher than you think. This is true for both rats and mice. Rodents breed so quickly that professionals recommend that you set a dozen traps for each rodent you see. Continue to trap as long as you see any evidence of rodent activity.