Easy to set by hand or foot. Patented interlocking teeth. Removable bait cup allows trap to be service without being set. Motomco’s mechanical traps are ideal for capturing the occasional “intruder” or as part of a more extensive control program. Traps are easy to use and work well along walls, in corners or wherever rodents travel. TOMCAT reusable rat and mouse traps set in one easy motion and are safer to use the conventional snap traps.
This big boy lived in my backyard jungle paradise for months, maybe years. He evaded every trap I set for him, even ate a pound of rat poison…..think it just fattened him up. Tunneled under every yucca, palm tree and raised planter he could find. Then came the TOMCAT. Just placed a bunch of them along his poop trails, perpendicular to the perimeter block walls up in the raised planter terraces. Waited weeks for him to make the fatal error…….then just last night, he strutted right onto the trip plate. Didn’t even eat the bait in the cup………….SNAP the jaws went down and that was the ender for him. Got to say, he was a smart fella……took a while but even the most cunning rat gets trapped.
Update: reduced my rating from ***** (5) to ** (2) as the trap broke after the first use (kill). The plastic latch mechanism cracked, presumably when it caught the first rodent, and will no longer set. It was literally set 1x and used 1x (correctly per instructions) and broke.
You need a waterproof electronic rat trap? Pay attention to the Rodent Terminator Trap. Manufacturer promises it works even in the rain. It takes 2 minutes to set up and then it’s ready to kill rats. By the way, you will never miss the moment of capture because trap can give sound and visual signals. When it triggered, it makes a sound for about 30 seconds similar to a smartphone in vibrate mode. If the plates of Rodent Terminator Trap get too dirty, it’ll give you a fault indication (red LED light). Some users think that getting an indication of a kill is a big trouble because they don’t hear the sound indicator and need to have the ability to check blinking lights as a usual.
Rat traps have been around as long as there have been rats, and no trap is ever going to be 100% effective at eliminating a rat problem. Unless rats are trapped out early before they colonize an area, you’ll never catch every rat because they will eventually figure out what a trap means, and they will avoid it at all costs. You can check out the rat trap buyer’s guide listed below for more information on the traps themselves to determine which type is best for you.
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If you want to kill rats, then these are the perfect rat traps in 2017 for you. These kill the rodents instantly, even the rodent don’t feel it. There is no doubt about it that these are the humane and indoor & outdoor rat traps you can find.
Because these traps are so economically priced, the trap and the rat can be disposed of. If someone is budget minded, the trap can also be reused. They are meant for a quick and easy disposal and cleanup. Victor makes these units with superior quality and they are safe enough to be placed anywhere in the home. For the most effective setup, place them at 2-3 foot intervals in the most commonly traveled paths. These units are environmentally responsible and budget friendly.
The kill chamber is now ready for cleaning. Use a hydrogen peroxide topical solution (available at most drug stores) and an old toothbrush to clean the inside of the chamber. Use a wire brush as needed to remove any corrosion, being careful not to be too vigorous. This could accidentally remove all of the protective zinc plating.
When rats invade a house, it’s likely because of a swelling rat population somewhere nearby. If they’ve invaded your house but not your neighbor’s, it’s only because your house is less secure. However, sealing the gaps and plugging the holes in your walls, roof, windows and vents is just part of the battle. You also need to deny them useful paths to move around your property.
The words “rat infestation” conjures up thoughts of the middle ages, the black plague, vermin and the Pied Piper. Rats are no laughing matter, spreading disease as they go, as they have colonized virtually every part of the earth by hitching a ride on the vehicles that humans have used to explore the earth, particularly seafaring vessels. 
Uh-huh, been there, done that. It looks like the problem is the dirt inside the trap. If it is buzzing, then something leads to a short circuit between the metal electrode plates in the rear of the device. In most cases, you’ll find traces of food bait, the rodent’s fur or organic liquids there. Take out the batteries, dry the inside of the trap with a wet cloth or a paper towel, let it dry and try to turn on the device again (remember to wear rubber gloves). Make sure you monitor the cleanliness of your “rat killer” further on.
Set up of these units are easy. Make sure the trap is disabled, and then place the bait on the metal pedal. It is important to note that using a q-tip or another device to spread the bait is important. When a human’s scent is on the trap; the rats will steer clear. If you want to ensure you get your catch every time, use another device to spread the peanut butter, hazelnut butter, or cheese. After the bait is loaded, you pull back the kill bar and attach it with your thumb. Use multiple traps in high rodent activity areas. High success rates have been reported with just one night of use. They can work great in a barn, kitchen, bathroom, garage or even an office building. It’s an inexpensive and easy way to deal with a rat issue.
You’ll find a lot of conflicting advice about this.  I’ve found four things that seem to work  well : peanut butter, cheese, bacon bits and mashed up cat food.  You don’t need a lot of it – on this trap a smear will work well.
Many of us have dogs and cats that roam the yard — a rat trap won’t kill them, but it will hurt them pretty badly. What I do is put down a rat trap – baited with bacon (unlike previous poster, I’m not much for sewing, so I use a twist-tie) – and put it under a plastic milk crate with a couple cinder blocks sitting on top. The pets can’t get to the trap, but the rats can . . . pop goes the rodent! P.S. since I’m lazy, I put the trap set next to the trash can, so I don’t have to walk too far with a dead, stinkin’, flea infested rat.
Rats can be annoying by chewing things up, and even frightening for some. However, killing them seems inhumane and traps from the store are expensive. Luckily, a few you can use homemade rat traps that will keep the rat safe from harm, so that it can be released outside where it belongs without the cost of bought traps.
Another thing that makes the Rat Zapper an attractive purchase is the fact that it comes with a 100 percent customer satisfaction guarantee. That means that you don’t have to worry if it doesn’t work for you; you can get your money back. You are out absolutely nothing to try it out. Many customers love the fact that there is no mess with this unit. Nothing is worse than an old metal trap that leaves a huge mess on the kitchen floor. These units are designed for a quick use and a snappy clean-up. If you are tired of dealing with rats and your home has been invaded far too many times; the Rat Zapper may be the humane option you are looking for.
The Victor Company did a great deal of research to create a product unlike anything else in the pest control line. Most people want to use the most economical way to dispose of these pests. Because this unit has a strong and deadly shock, it is a safe way to get rid of a horrible problem.
The next day, I awoke to what sounded like an intruder in the kitchen. In actuality, it was a mouse who was trying so violently to escape a glue trap that I mistook him for a living being hundreds of times his size. He took deep, shivering breaths, and every so often he would muster all of his energy and violently thrash in an attempt to free himself.
4. The mouse dies trying to break free – Mice have been known to break their necks, tear off their skin or even chew their own legs off trying to make their escape, resulting in a painful death. In the meantime, the trauma that this could cause to the mouse will cause it to urinate and deficate on themselves and the trap. Not only is this cruel in and of itself, but it is extremely unsanitary as it could lead to the spread of the hantavirus.
If you don’t get a good look at the rodent, you may have problems identifying it or them. This is where a “rodent camera trap” can be very useful. A camera trap will capture your rats on video. They are easy to use and relatively inexpensive. Click the link above to read more about them.
Buy Used and Save: Buy a Used “Victor Electronic Rat Trap – Reusable, Easy to Bai…” and save 48% off the $59.99 list price. Buy with confidence as the condition of this item and its timely delivery are guaranteed under the “Amazon A-to-z Guarantee”. See all Used offers.
The Tomahawk Trap XLKR – 13 x 3 x 3.5 has solid aluminum sides to reduce the stress of capture and offer a hiding place that rats will want to enter. One of the best made traps available. Read Full Review
To remove the glue from floors or other nonporous surfaces, try oil if the surface won’t be damaged, or use turpentine, paint thinner, or Goo Be Gone, or similar product. Test an inconspicuous area first. Let the solvent sit for several minutes, wipe it off with a dry cloth, then wash with mild detergent.
Once a mouse marks its territory, it can find its way back from a pretty impressive distance. If you plan to release it anywhere near your home, make sure you find and block the entrance it originally came through, or else your guest will be back in no time.
Maybe if you just put a thin line of pb around the can, they would have to reach further and spin off the can. That was one big rat. The ones that got into my house were about 10 inches, nose to tail.
A similar trap I have seen and read about, that said that it was for the big ones was a barrel trap. It was basically the same thing, except a barrel (like a 55 gallon drum) with a tarp or plastic tied tightly over it, with an x cut in the middle. The bait was then put in the middle (they used corn I believe). When the rat walked out over it, it would collapse. The guy I learned this from used it to catch big field rats for bait for his trapline. Don’t know if it would work, but it sounds like it would catch big ones better than that one. I guess it would be akin to trying to trap a coyote in a rabbit trap. Even if the trap works, if the animal is too big, it won’t work.
POWERFUL RODENT KILLERS ⚡ With over 30% more force than traditional traps, a hair trigger sensor, and jaws designed to kill without breaking the skin, these rodent killers are the ultimate protection against rats, gophers and other pests.
Catching rodents on such sticky tapes is very convenient. However it’s not recommended to put sticky traps outside because of humidity, dust or other natural conditions which can lead glue into improper state.
I am the best mouser in our house (and we have three cats!) Like you, I found that rodents can eat peanut butter or cheese right off a trap without springing it. So I took to cooking a piece of turkey bacon until it was just shy of crispy, then I threaded a needle and “sewed” it onto the trap. Then I put the trap between the cabinet and stove so that the mice could only approach it from the striking side (and if the cats stuck their paws in there, the trap would spring away from them).
Place the pop can on a hard surface, tab down, and punch a hole through the bottom with hammer and 3/4-inch steel punch. Slide the free end of the wood dowel through this bottom hole through the can and out the tab end. Poke the wood dowel through the empty hole in the bucket and then center the pop can in the middle of the bucket. Spin the can on the dowel with your hand to make sure it spins freely.
Food and animal byproducts — Rodents will even chow down on various non-edibles, such as worn clothes and leather. Simply tasting or smelling like a food is often enough for a hungry rodent to make a test-nibble on such an object. If the taste or smell is strong enough, a desperate rodent will continue with its meal, too.
A: Rodents will travel the same pathways over and over. Those pathways are always along the base of a wall or similar vertical structure. Traps should always be placed in the pathways. Pairs of traps can be employed since mice will often jump over obstructions in their normal path.
To make a homemade rat trap from a bucket, you will also need a box, thin board, long wood plank, water and bait food. Take or buy the buckets of at least two feet in size and fill it half full with cold water.
I find the cheaper baits from supermarkets do not work, I mean the blasted vermin do not touch them. I use the grain baits from Nights and sons (local farm suplier). We buy 2kg tins @ $40. The price has not changed for a number of years. I will verify it as we need to buy another one.
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Have you ever tried Rat Zappers? They are a very humane was to kill the rats. It’s an electric chair for rats. They go in and never come out. They are a bit pricey but they are worth it. The problem with bait is that the rat suffers to death. The occasional problem with the wooden snap traps is when the rats are not instantly killed. I want to be humane as much as possible.
Rats are comparatively easy to trap with snap traps, because they are curious and explore a bit, and are generally fearless. Many types of traps work, but the old standard wooden snap traps are actually the most effective. Just spread some peanut butter on the trip pan. However – bait is actually of least concern. You actually don’t need any bait at all. You will have far more success if, before you even start rat trapping, you seal shut every possible entry hole using steel mesh, which rats are unable to chew through. This first step is by far the most important thing, and the only crucial thing you must do for permanent rat control. Once that is done, catching the rats is a cinch, regardless of bait. Once the building is sealed, and the rats are trapped inside, set at least a dozen or more snap traps in the attic, on areas of rat activity (look for droppings and trails in the insulation). You actually don’t need bait, but it does help so bait with peanut butter. That’s all you really need. Sure, chocolate, or slim jims, or pineapple, or pretty much any food will work. But since peanut butter is easy to apply and works as well as anything else, that’s what I go with. But remember, setting some rat traps with peanut butter randomly in the house or attic will catch a few rats, but not all of them, and the problem will last as long as you have open holes leading into your house. Read more about rat trapping for tips and proper techniques.
Very strong spring, and very sensitive trigger. Works great. They almost feel a little hard to pull back, more so than my original wooden Victor traps. But I’m very happy with these. I actually had two pull out of the older style wooden traps with wire snap. These have a jagged edge that makes a lip to keep the critter in place. I would suggest using a heavy work glove when setting these. I would hate to get my finger snapped in one. I would recommend these, and hope I don’t need to buy more – they seem to be working.
A: Always secure bait in a bait station. TOMCAT sells its baits pre-loaded in, or packaged with tamper-resistant bait stations. You should begin baiting as soon as you detect a problem. Put bait stations in areas where you notice or suspect rodent activity; where rodents will find it. Mice tend to travel only 10 to 30 feet from their nest, while a rat’s home range is 100 to 150 feet. Be sure to keep bait fresh and dry, and dispose of any old or contaminated bait. Each mouse only needs to consume a small portion of the bait block to get ill and die, so while you may not see a great deal of evidence that it is being consumed, it is working. As with any rodent control product, always follow the DIRECTIONS FOR USE on the package. The safest way to use any rodent control product is to place it in areas inaccessible to children and dogs.
In addition to being cruel, indiscriminate, and unsanitary, glue traps and other lethal methods never work to keep rodents away in the long run, and their use will actually backfire. This is because when animals are killed or otherwise removed, the resultant spike in the food supply causes accelerated breeding among survivors and newcomers—and this means increased populations!
On the old wooden snap traps I find when cooking meat with fat on it (eg bacon, chops, etc), add some cheese to the fry pan after meat removed. Allow cheese to melt. Then mold it to the metal tag on trap and let cool (ie harden). Impossible for a sneaky critter to remove bait without getting trapped. They love the smell of animal fat.
Live Catch Rat Trap Indoor Use: No, not unless used in attics or crawl spaces.  If used in these areas, be sure to check trap daily to make sure that any trapped animal has food and water.  Never leave trapped animals in a hot attic in the summer.
Our Pest Library is full of up-to-date information on termites, ants, and cockroaches as well as more than 25 common household pests. Find out more information about their behavior, habits, and other cool facts.
The Raticator Max Infrared Sensing electronic rat killer uses 4-D batteries that will last for 1 year or 50 kills. A red light on top, signals when a rat is inside. Simply tip the trap downwards and the rat will fall into a disposal medium of your choice. Read Full Review
Rats infest homes and cause destruction to the areas of the house they live in. Ridding your home of rats requires patience and a plan. The plan usually involves an expensive mousetrap that you may not be able to afford, or involves a messy mousetrap that causes a horrifying scene at cleanup. Homemade mousetraps can cut down on costs, while leaving the gory scenes to a minimum.
For the best results, we recommend placing the trap along the wall where rodents primarily travel. The bait and trigger end of the mouse trap should be flush against the wall so that mice will be tempted to explore them. We recommend baiting the trap with a toothpick amount of peanut butter. Anything more than that, and the mice may be able to access the bait without setting off the trap.
You may also need to select a trap that has a highly sensitive sensor to detect when the mouse is present. You may have baby mice that don’t weight enough to trigger the trap’s snapping mechanism.  Electric mousetraps are more sensitive than some of the snap traps.  The Raticator Plus Rodent Trap is known to have a very sensitive sensing circuit while being an affordable type of electronic trap.
A: Many of the Tomcat mechanical traps feature a bait cup that lets you bait the trap with an attractant. Similarly, an attractant can be used on the triggers of those that do not have a bait cup like TOMCAT Wood Rat and Mouse Traps. Attractants, such as TOMCAT Mouse Attractant Gel, improve rodent captures. Because rats are neophobic (afraid of new things), they may initially be reluctant to run through the trap. Baiting with an attractant may help entice them into the trap.