How do you keep rats away? I started a compost pile and it attracted lots of rats so I got rid of it immediately but now the damage has been done. I had been in this apartment for over a year without a single rat but now I can’t seem to completely get rid of them. I caught like 7 in 2 nights and kept the traps up for another couple weeks with nothing. Now a couple months later they’re back and in full force.
If you don’t get a good look at the rodent, you may have problems identifying it or them. This is where a “rodent camera trap” can be very useful. A camera trap will capture your rats on video. They are easy to use and relatively inexpensive. Click the link above to read more about them.
The Havahart X-Small 2-Door Trap has been a staple in trapping hardware because of ease of use and effectiveness. A solid metal top shields your hands from claws and teeth, and an easy pull door bar makes release virtually effortless. Read Full Review
I tried the live traps and the sticky traps and nothing! I finally just decided to get these old fashioned ones and….oh snap, I caught 2 mice the first night! I’m not sure why these get bad reviews, they couldn’t be any easier and they WORK!
Almost impossible to set. If you have excellent fine motor skills and you do miraculously succeed in getting the tip of the metal bar to stay under the 0.01mm margin of space under the plastic pedal, the thing is so sensitive at that point that even lightly setting it on the floor causes it to snap. So frustrating when you’re already in the midst of a war against mice. And don’t believe the other reviews saying that it’s necessary for the trap to be this sensitive — it’s NOT. I have used far less sensitive traps with great success. Another complaint is that you need to use needle-nosed pliers to remove a metal staple to free the metal bar. I shouldn’t need to go hunt down a tool just to use a mouse trap. Such a terribly-designed product. I will never buy Victor brand traps again.
Only unfortunate thing is, if you use these outside near areas that little birds congregate, they are sensitive enough that the birds can sometimes set them off. Which doesn’t end well for the bird sad to say.. But, I usually pour one out for the dead birdie if that happens, and move on..
One particularly clever solution requires only a large bucket, a spoon, and some peanut butter. Put a dab of peanut butter on the handle of the spoon and balance it on a countertop with the bucket underneath. When the mouse runs out to get the peanut butter, it will fall into the bucket along with the spoon.
I think I will try the bucket rat trap with stairway to heaven, but made the spindle withe the can on an inch or so lower. My reasoning is that if it’s too high they could just eat away, but lower down they would need to lean in more and hopefully fall in more easily
Love these mice killers. It’s a bummer the mice are usually still alive and screaming to be freed when you catch them, but they’ll be dead soon enough. I wrap them in a plastic bag and out to the dump with their squirming selves.
Live Catch Rat Trap Tips: Use a piece of old carpet and place under the trap to collect urine and droppings. Use this piece of carpet on future trapping missions to attract other rats and animals. Be sure to wear gloves. Old carpet can be kept in a trash bag.
Hoont™ Electronic Rodent Trap costs ~$58.99. The trap is supplied in two pieces which are supposed to be assembled. The idea of its functioning is the same as for any other trap: the rodents are electrocuted once they touch metal plates covering the entire floor of the trap. The trap also has an indicator which gives either a red flash (this happens when a rodent is inside, don’t touch anything if you don’t want to get electrocuted!) or a green one (when the rodent is finally dead). There is also a sound signal available.
With amazing hearing, vision, and a sense of smell and touch that is far beyond what most people would have anticipated, trapping mice can be a challenge. You need to be able to outsmart the mice in your home to get rid of them for good.
If live trapping is the preference you end up trying to do the “responsible” thing, beware of local laws and regulations. In many areas, relocation of wild animals is prohibited. Relocating to different counties can also be against the law. Be sure to check with your local animal control official before relocating any live rat. In some cases, they may even offer to come out and pick it up.
These little rodents need nothing more than a quarter inch opening (absolutely anywhere) to gain access to a building or home. On top of that, these little creatures can live inside walls. They may use the interior of your home as a base of operations for midnight raids into your kitchen, bedroom, or pantry.
We apologize if our Easy Set® design was not to your liking and want to assure you that Victor® continues to manufacture rat traps that use the original metal pedal design. We strive to present a variety of traps in order to accommodate the varied preferences of our consumers.
The original wood-based wire snap trap, the Victor® Easy Set® Rat Trap, 12 Pack, provides instant rodent control. For effective rat control, each rat trap comes pre-baited with a large, scented plastic ‘swiss cheese’ trip pedal. The large pedal of this rat trap is easily activated – both by rodent interest in food and through accidental contact as rats scamper across the floor – to ensure maximum trapping.
Use two traps in the position mentioned above or place them length-wise, end-to-end (red “V’s” on traps pointing towards each other) so that the bait pedal end will be encountered first as mice approach from either direction. For trickier spots like walls, air ducts, and crawl spaces, check out our article here.
To set the trap, hold it vertically and make sure the yellow pedal is at about a 20 or 30 degree angle from the base. Then set the trap by hooking the metal bar under the lip of the yellow pedal. If you hook the left side of the pedal, the trap will be easier to set but slightly more difficult to trip. If you hook the right side, the trap will be more difficult to set but slightly easier to trip. For the best accuracy and outcome, we recommend setting the trap somewhere between these two settings.
Place trap facing wall where you see rat activity. Press set-arm with your foot or hand. You will hear a ‘click’ when set. Bait well should be placed perpendicular to the wall with the bait facing wall. Target areas with high rat activity where smudge marks or droppings are discovered. Place traps at 5-10 feet intervals.
After inspecting the rat infested areas, place the rat glue boards in those areas. Place the glue traps directly in their runways. Rats usually travel along baseboards and walls, since they use the walls for guidance. Place glue traps where there has been rodent activity.
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Besides using peanut butter, there are a few other tried and true ways to effectively trap rats and quickly spare your home of any further damage. For example, you can place cardboard tunnels over the rat traps to create an enclosed space that will attract rats to the peanut butter trap even more so than they already are (if that’s even possible). It is also important to note that rats are very shy creatures that take a while to warm up to new surroundings, so don’t be worried if it’s been a week or so and nothing has happened. Rats will have to first grow accustomed to the traps before they will approach them. So wait patiently, because soon the rats will give in to the temptation of the peanut butter.
Basically what prompted going this route was that my cat recently caught two in one day in the bushes of my yard – finally giving me the hard evidence of the rats out there. I called pest control and the rep quoted $350 for a 1 month monitoring with bait traps to capture – no poison, again for the reason stated above that they might go into walls / crawl space and die and smell terrible. Oh and no guarantee on catching anything. Seriously? $350 for *maybe* some success? I might as well spend $40 for *maybe* some success with my own trap and if it doesnt work, return it.
Live traps are generally larger than standard snap traps. The larger trap size can be more of an issue to the rat and can create “trap shyness”. Live rat traps also create another problem – the rat is alive when captured. The rat has to then be relocated far enough away that it can’t find it’s way back. That usually means a trip in the car or truck to let it go somewhere.
Even simpler, Instructables user Tim Anderson just puts some peanut butter on the inside of a glass and props it up on a nickel. When the mouse tries to get the peanut butter, the glass should fall and trap it inside.
__You’re better off with the old style. Put your bait, preferably peanut butter (PB), on the underside of the bait tab, need very little maybe 1/8 thimble. Put a small amount of PB next to the trap as an enticement. Said rodent has to turn it’s head in an awkward position to get the bait and nearly 100% of the time will get caught because it’s out of position for a quick get-away.
The Nooski Rat Trap is extremely effective at killing rats. It’s also extremely effective at causing anger and disgust at the way the rat dies. It is however, a much cleaner and easier way of killing rats. Like the Raticator, it uses a lure such as dog food or cat food.
Convenient Bait Door for Effortless Bait Application With a built-in bait cup, you will know your trap is properly baited. Access the cup by opening the bait door located at the back of the trap. To get started, use a toothpick or cotton swab to apply a high protein bait such as peanut butter or hazelnut spread in the cup. Then place your trap in an area with high rodent activity and turn it on.
A: Electronic rat traps are the quickest and easiest way to catch rats. They are easy to use, with no setting or glue required. Their no-touch technology, plus 100% kill rate makes them an ideal way to control your rat problem. If you would like more information on how to catch a rat, view our complete guide below.
A: Norway rats generally travel up to 100 feet from their nest to their food source. Roof rats have a wide range, up to 300 feet. The house mouse stays close to its nest, usually traveling only 30 feet or so to its food source.
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What makes the Metal Rat Trap so much better than other versions on the market? It starts with the galvanized metal that won’t rust. That means that once you purchase, these they are an investment. They also have something that traditional snap traps don’t; they have a multitude of teeth along the edge around the pressure plate. These little teeth are sharp and once the rat wonders onto the plate; there’s no way he’s getting off alive. Some of the problems with other style traps are that they allow the rodent to wonder away after receiving just a jolt. However, this one ensures that once they bite the bait, their life is over.
If a rat smells a food on another rat’s breath, it will eat that food. Actually, rats need to smell a combination of carbon disulphide (or “rat breath”) and a food odor to feel comfortable eating a new food. Once one rat takes a bait, others will compete for it. The best way to make sure this happens is to put out a bait food on traps you have not set for several days before you set the traps.
Third, attach jumper cables to the metal plate at the back of the cage. The clips on the cables should just barely fit onto the edge of the mesh cage. Set the trapdoor loading the spring as directed on the product label. Place the electric cage rat trap diy in a rodent-infested area.