Please be sure to read the product label of any insecticide you choose to use to get information on the personal protective safety gear you will need. In most situations, it is recommended that you wear long pants, a long sleeved shirt, closed toe shoes with socks, chemical resistant gloves, and goggles. In areas where ventilation is poor, a manufacturer may recommend you wear a mask or a respirator. We have put together two different safety kits that will make selecting the correct safety gear easier for you.
Cats are not too fussy about whether the verimin are norwegian, english or transylvanian. The more cats the merrier in fact. Of course then you have a cat problem – they use a lot of cat litter, drink a lot of special lactose free milk, eat a lot of eukanuba specially prepared, expensive cat food and prefer soft, velvety bedding.
Rats compensate for their poor vision by having excellent memories.  Once a rat locates a safe way to get to where it wants to go it will travel that path over and over again.  This is why rats are great at running mazes in lab experiments.
You will physically need to pull back the spring to “load” it, once you have placed the bait on the bait holder, and then carefully set it on rat-runs, or occupied areas where rats are known to travel. They must be checked several times per day, because if one rat sees another rat that has been caught, you’ll never catch another.
Not sure if the continuation of the tutorial is even necessary at this point. I didn’t have a mouse problem, I had rats! This is why I continue to stress the importance of trading theory for ACTION before you actually need critical gear and equipment.
I re-baited the trap, turned it on, and checked it the next morning. I could see a rat tail poking out of the trap. I don’t know how they call this thing “no see” when it the tail was impossible to miss. Anyway, I disposed of the rat and reset the trap without applying more bait. Another rat down in just a few hours! Fast forward a couple of weeks and the trap has claimed (I think) 11 rats so far and I’m still on the first set of batteries. Super effective!
To be humane, live traps must be checked hourly since trapped animals can quickly die from stress, exposure, or dehydration. Also, rodents must be released within 100 yards of where they were found because animals who are relocated beyond their natural territory have trouble finding adequate food, water, and shelter and die as a result. When not in use, humane traps should be scrubbed with a mild bleach solution (to eliminate food smells), disabled, and securely stored—otherwise animals can become trapped unbeknownst to the user!
Ammonia-soaked cotton balls or rags will drive rodents out (they hate the smell). Place them in areas where rodents, droppings, or nests have been seen, and be sure to give the animals a few days to leave. Then, to keep unwelcome “visitors” out, seal entry points using foam sealant, steel wool, hardware cloth, or metal flashing. If any rodents need to be removed from homes, this can be done with humane cage traps. PETA has carried a “smart” mousetrap in our catalog for years because it’s effective and humane, and it’s one of our top-selling items.
It’s a very effective and can be used as an outdoor rat trap and that’s why people prefer it. Its perfect design makes it powerful and easy to use. You can even set it by hand or foot. It has patented interlocking teeth, which ensures that it becomes impossible for rats to escape. It also comes with the removable bait cup, if you need.
You can use victor brand traps, their performance is satisfying enough and they prove good value for money, as mentioned above. You can also test a rodent terminator trap which costs about $40 (not much cheaper than victor trap); its effectiveness is nearly the same. As for the expensive one, you can invest into Raticator Max. This trap uses infrared detection, i.e. it is only activated once the rodent is inside. You can also use live rat traps which are suitable for those who are not in favor of lethal methods.
You have to know that despite the fact that batteries last a very long time you need to replace them if you don’t find newly killed rodents for a long time. This can happen if your “uninvited visitors” are too big for the trap’ tunnel hole. The Victor company tells that this trap kills 100 mice per each per set of 4AA batteries, but as to Amazon customers’ reviews it turns out that this number is a little less – about 35 killed mice in fall and winter. It’s a big or a small capture?
Cheap, easy, and I don’t fear for my fingers setting them. I set them up in my shed and storage rooms and I have not seen a trap get sprung without an unwanted intruder in it. Tip, I put a dab of peanut butter and then a piece of dog food sticking out of the peanut butter.
We were plagued with rats, the cats were afraid of them. I went to the feed and seed to find something to use and talked to an old farmer about it. What he told me was brilliant. Get a five gallon bucket fill it about half way with water, then dump a small bag of cheap dog food in it. The dog food floats. Put it where the rats have access to it. The little suckers will drown thinking its a free meal. I tried it and it worked! Must have trashed 2 dozen rats over the course of a week.
Even though no one truly knows the origin of the black rat, the earliest traces of human co-habitation come from Southeast Asia, although there are fossils of the black rat from prehistoric times in Europe. Needless to say, this symbiotic relationship between rats and humans happened early on, and the species has become so specialized, many scientists speculate that if the human population ever died out, black rats would go extinct too.
A: Place the trap inside a small cardboard box that has enough height to allow the trap to snap. Cut a 3″ x 3 opening on two opposite sides of the box. Place the box with a baited trap in a known rodent path.
The small unit can be set with the touch of a finger or even a toe. It’s so easy that a child can fill the removable bait container and set it. The bait cup has ample space to allure the rat, and is easy to remove to fill or clean. The Rat Snap has special interlocking teeth so that no rat can possibly escape. Are you tired of the old-fashioned traps that rats have learned how to wiggle out from? Do you want to catch the rat but don’t want to see or touch it? This trap allows you to dispose of the rodent without touching it.
Victor Rat Glue Board (24 traps) – provide effective pest control with no baiting or setting. The product is a great low-cost alternative to rat control products. The trap requires no setting – just position and catch.
Move the arm bar over the kill bar and latch the end under the yellow pedal. Please take note to the Firm and Sensitive setting. The trap will be easier to set on the firm side, but not trip as easily. The trap will be more difficult to set on the sensitive side but will trip very easily.
The Bigfoot Rat Size Spring Action Wooden Snap The Bigfoot Rat Size Spring Action Wooden Snap Trap is a popular method for pest removal and features a high tension professional spring to eliminate rats. Each trap is made of laminate wood for superior strength with a double spring to kill larger rats. This wooden trap is smaller than …  More + Product Details Close
It’s another widely used one of the most powerful rat trap which is manufactured by the company Victor. This device produces 8,500 volts of electric shock which is able to kill a rodent in microseconds.
As far as I remember, an infrared sensor is not supposed to be there. If you are looking for this option, check out raticator max trap which has this sensor installed. Actually I think all of the large rat traps, electronic ones in particular, must be equipped with this option
It produces no mess. There will be no blood, just a dead rodent. For cleaning it, you don’t even have to touch it. Just pick the device, and slide the dead animal into the trash can, and set the trap for the next killing. This device kills more than 90% animals which enter it.
Glue traps never work to keep rodents away in the long run, and their use will actually backfire. This is because when animals are killed or otherwise removed, the resultant spike in the food supply causes accelerated breeding among survivors and newcomers—and this means increased populations. The only surefire way to keep mice and other animals out of your house is to make it less inviting to them.
Most likely it can’t as its entrance is not large enough so probably a kitten won’t fit inside. The same is true for the bait. Use sunflower seeds which attract mice effectively. A kitten will hardly eat them. It can attempt to get there out of curiously, but no one is immune from that. I haven’t heard anything about pets being electrocuted by electric traps, so I don’t think there is anything to worry about.
The next day, I awoke to what sounded like an intruder in the kitchen. In actuality, it was a mouse who was trying so violently to escape a glue trap that I mistook him for a living being hundreds of times his size. He took deep, shivering breaths, and every so often he would muster all of his energy and violently thrash in an attempt to free himself.
Q.I recently purchased a victor electronic rat trap Model M241 it worked great for about one month or 30 rats but it’s now showing the LED green light and The LED red light at the same time and its not working. I will like to know if there is something I can do or what do the lights mean?
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We had mouse problems in our house, and it came down to finding all of the entry points and sealing them up once we (humanely) caught the mice. The best way to work out where they are entering is to watch where they run when they see you enter a room =) As for your car, well, it shouldn’t be as tricky as a house to find the gaps for them to enter.
For all you skeptics, don’t worry this works! Last week found a rat in my back porch, tried to chase it out of the building but hid behind the stairs. I tried to trap it and even leave the back door open, hoping it would leave. Then one day it was back upstairs in my back porch, chased it down the the stairs and even made barricades hoping it would leave the building, to no resolution. Then I decided to order this product and research the reviews, what’s the worst that can happen, lose $10? One week later I got the product, read the instructions, put some peanut butter on the bait cup, set the trap overnight and went to bed. The next day after coming from work, I opened the basement door to find the rat CAPTURED and DEAD!. This product is the real deal. See for yourself! Not sure if I would reuse the trap as some would after this picture.
For rat trap DIY, you will need a piece of metal plate, a small cage rat trap, jumper cables and a 12V battery. Cage rat traps are commercially available nowadays. They simply catch rodents that enter our homes. Connecting cages to batteries allows to kill the pests immediately.
An electric rat trap is a simple device that electrocutes rodents, effectively killing them immediately. A homemade rat trap that is electrified can be used only indoors, out of the reach of children and pets.
Though they may seem practical, mouse glue traps are probably one of the most inhumane ways to catch a mouse. Once the mouse is stuck to the strip, it will remain alive until one of the following happens:
Rats are often a problem not only in rural communities where people store or grow their food but also in urban areas. While rat poison is dangerous to use, using rat traps is an effective way to exterminate a rat problem. Even if you are not a professional in trapping destructive rats, there are many easy-to-operate rat traps that will help you to resolve your rat problem.
If you must place a trap parallel to a wall, place it toe-to-toe with another trap facing the opposite direction. This will make it easier to catch a rat coming from either direction. Otherwise, keep your traps spaced at least 15 feet apart from one another.
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A: The glue from all our traps can be removed easily. Liberally coat the glue on the paw with vegetable oil. The oil will dissolve the glue within a short period of time. The oily residue can then be removed by washing with mild soap and warm water.
I prefer it to snap traps because of the lack of blood and gore – the body is very easily disposed of without leaving a mess behind which is a potential hazard to chickens, pets, wildlife or children.
Equipped with the aggressive, Secure Catch® design, the Tomcat® Secure-Kill® Rat Trap traps and kills rats quickly and effectively. It is easy to use and sets with a single touch. Escape is virtually impossible with the Secure Catch® design, and the trap is non-toxic. The convenient grab-tab feature makes for easier disposal. Kills rats-guaranteed!*
A: Grip the release paper in one corner and “zip” it off in one smooth, continuous motion (like removing an adhesive bandage.) The paper will come right off. Get more information on setting a glue board in the video How to Use Glue Traps and Boards.
This handy contraception is black in color and measures 11 x 4.5 x 5 inches. It is powered by 4 D batteries that operate the sensors that activate the 7000V shock. It is energy efficient and will kill as many as 30 rats before the alkaline batteries need to be replaced. Unlike other traps that leave a bloody mess or odor, this one makes clean and mess-free kills.
At last, the homemade rat trap from bottle can be placed in an infested area. In addition, the caught rat won’t be able to escape once it comes in because the toothpick prevents the barbwire door from swinging outward.
I gave it 4 stars because occasionally the rat gets away. Sometimes the trap is sprung with no sign of a rat, and sometimes there’s a rat arm inside the trap. It makes me feel a little sad to think of the rats with crutches and prosthetic legs. I assume, in their world, it’s hard to get a job as a chef, lab rat, running in a rat race, or zodiac model with a missing front leg. Although, I hear the rats in this area have a strong union with excellent health care.
The Tomcat® Rat Trap (Wooden) is the economical way to control rats. The pesticide-free trap can be used with Tomcat® Attractant Gel. Reliable and easy to use, this trap kills rats quickly and efficiently.
I find a splash of Pine Sol to be helpful with dead critter stink. Don’t know if it will deter the buggers from coming to the bait, but it probably won’t, in itself, kill anything else that comes along. Bec is right, ethylene glycol is highly toxic . . . but attracts animals due to its sweet taste. Don’t wan’t to kill the birds and bees and dogs and deer . . . just the rats.
There are several alternatives to using mouse glue traps. Snap traps work by triggering a mechanism designed to break the mouse’s neck. Though they pose the risk of causing physical injury when tampered with by children and pets, they are inexpensive, can be reused in most cases and quickly trap and kill mice without inhumane drawn-out suffering. If safety is an issue with regard to children or pets, you can even purchase covered snap traps.
Found mouse Droppings in a couple Kitchen drawers (gross), under kitchen Sink, and inside the bottom of a couple kitchen cabinets. Foam-filled & caulked the hell out of Rental unit Kitchen. Rat poison & Victor mouse traps all over the place now. Mice ate all the Poison set in attic. One of these Victor mouse traps walked away (disappeared) from where I’d put it in the attic, so I set 2 more identical traps. Next day – one dead Deer Mouse. Whole house filled with poison & these mouse traps. Yes, they’re sensitive, they have to be to catch a tiny mouse. Other brand Glue strips & more Expensive (plastic) no-touch mouse traps haven’t caught anything.
I am the best mouser in our house (and we have three cats!) Like you, I found that rodents can eat peanut butter or cheese right off a trap without springing it. So I took to cooking a piece of turkey bacon until it was just shy of crispy, then I threaded a needle and “sewed” it onto the trap. Then I put the trap between the cabinet and stove so that the mice could only approach it from the striking side (and if the cats stuck their paws in there, the trap would spring away from them).
I had far to many misses with Victor snap traps until I repeatedly tested the trap and realized that when the trap triggered and the bow flew over it actually pulled the trap out from under the mouse or rat. I now screw the the mouse traps to a 6″ long piece of 2×1. It’s simple, stabilizes the trap, and make handling easier. I use a 8″ piece of 2×4 for the rat traps. One screw does the job and I no longer have flying rat traps.
If a rat smells a food on another rat’s breath, it will eat that food. Actually, rats need to smell a combination of carbon disulphide (or “rat breath”) and a food odor to feel comfortable eating a new food. Once one rat takes a bait, others will compete for it. The best way to make sure this happens is to put out a bait food on traps you have not set for several days before you set the traps.
Trapper Glue Board For Rats –  Glue boards for rat and mice control are one of the most criticized yet effective methods of capturing rats ever devised.  PETA – “People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals” has petitioned the EPA, most States, and the National Pest Management Association to remove glue board traps as a means of rodent control.  PETA considers glue boards cruel and inhumane to rats and mice.
Glue traps don’t require any bait at all, and they are safe for children and pets (at least pets larger than a hamster). However, either the rat dies of starvation or thirst, or you have to take appropriate precautions to avoid getting bitten when you remove the angry trapped rat still alive on the glue trap.