A huge drawback to the use of rat poison traps is the likelihood that the rat will crawl off to its nest (usually inside walls or other inaccessible places) to die, which leaves a secondary problem with the odor of decomposition. Another consequence of this, odor aside, is that fleas and mites will immediately abandon the body of a dead rat, and can establish themselves within the house or office. Since the fleas of rats are known disease vectors, one pest is replaced by another which may be equally as dangerous.
Had a mice problem went to Home Depot and got the electric repellent was sitting on the couch and saw a mouse roll from under the device to under the couch still have traps saw one mouse that got caught on the trap trying to get out but no more problems it has been months.
I purchased the electronic pest repeller and plugged it in. Later in the day I saw a roach, grabbed the electronic pest repeller out of the wall socket and smashed the roach with it. The roach was deffinately dead. The device was 100% effective, and the easy storage in electrical outlets makes it handy. I’m going to purchase one for every outlet in this roach hell hotel.
Do not use poison. Poison can cause rodents to die in your walls or attic, leading to unpleasant and hard-to-remove aromas. They are also dangerous to pets and children. Considering the relative effectiveness and safety of traps, you do not need to use poison to rid your home of rodents.
Actually, these rodents will eat just about anything. We were fortunate that we only lost a pack of cheap noodles and was left with only one extra opening in his pack. If left to their own survival instincts – they gotta eat – rats can destroy non-hardened food storage items and spread disease.
Drive a stick through the opposite ends of the water bottle (Or whatever object you chose to use. It should be cylindrical and easy to roll.) Drill holes in two sides of the bucket near the top where you can slide the hanger through. Fill the bucket with water. (optional) Set up your ramps, and then bait the rolling mechanism. You’ll have rats climbing up to get to the delicious bait only to be dropped to the bottom of the bucket!
Notice to all the posters here that use these electronic repellers in apartment buildings. YOU’RE DRIVING ALL YOUR PESTS INTO THE ADJOINING APARTMENT, AND WE DON’T LIKE IT. Have a little consideration for you neighbors. If you insist on keeping food out, dirty dishes in the sink, or a filthy apartment, KILL the bugs and rodents. Don’t send them nextdoor.
Do not use a trash can which is too wide. If you do, it’s possible the tube will come to rest on an angle, rather than straight up and down. If that happens, the mouse will be able to climb out of the tube easily.
These traps are the best and the only ones I buy. They catch mice like crazy! Their customer service is impeccable as well. I had a problem with an order that I received a few months ago. Most of the traps were broken in transit and hadn’t realized until last week when I took them out of the box to use. I called a rep at Victor, explained what happened and they took care of me and send me new ones. This is what customer service is all about and the reason I’m a customer for life. Thank you Victor!
To celebrate our 50 episode, we spent some time with one of the most recognized and respected pest professionals on the planet. Jerry Schappert talks with us about his early blogging days, books, pest control business, and his super successful online community.
I revew the PDF of how to set the trap and I couldn’t understand how to set the bar on the metal pedal mecanism. Do you introduce the bar on the hole in the metal pedal or you try to grab the little nail in it or both. I snap my fingers and I know it will work on a mouse. I learn more on the review that on the PDF panflet.
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I have battled rats for many years. Living close to a creek with sewer lines that run along it, these pesky critters always show up in the basement every winter. I’ve used just about every snap rat trap on the market, and although alot of the other traps work, these traps are the ones I keep coming back to. These traps work and work very well.
A: Be sure to check traps daily and replace as needed. Wear gloves when disposing of rodents. You can also disinfect the area with a household cleaner if you are concerned that there is a possible threat to your health.
The concept here is that the larger end of the plate, the side without the bait on it, is being held by the buckets edge, to give the mouse support enough to walk onto the plate and make it’s way to the bait.
I am the best mouser in our house (and we have three cats!) Like you, I found that rodents can eat peanut butter or cheese right off a trap without springing it. So I took to cooking a piece of turkey bacon until it was just shy of crispy, then I threaded a needle and “sewed” it onto the trap. Then I put the trap between the cabinet and stove so that the mice could only approach it from the striking side (and if the cats stuck their paws in there, the trap would spring away from them).
Insert skewers into the bottle. Take two five-inch wooden skewers of the kind used to grill shish kebab or construct various arts and crafts projects. They should be only a millimeter or so in diameter. Press the two skewers through the bottle from one set of points to the other using the marks you made.
This is one mouse trap I use when I want to catch several mice and I am not going to be around for a little while. Many times we would use this at my hunting cabin in the foothills of the Adirondacks when we would leave for the week and come back to a bucket full of mice.
I have a huge rat problem going on… They are in the crawl space above my kitchen having a grand ol’ time and living quite comfortably. I didnt notice the screen covers on the vents have holes in them and they just climb the stucco to get up there – this was pointed out to me by a pest control inspector. Worst of all there is no way for a person to access this area to get them out, nor poison them and have them die up there, potentially.
Victor® Electronic Rat Trap The Victor® Electronic Rat Trap is the ultimate in rodent control. It works by delivering a humane, high-voltage shock to kill rats that enter the chamber. This powerful device is capable of killing up to 50 rats per set of fully charged batteries (4 “C” included for each trap), making it a great value when you’re dealing with a sizable infestation. It’s also easy to use! To get started, simply apply a high protein bait in the provided bait cup, place the trap in a location with high rodent activity and turn it on.
This is probably the easiest of them all to make! All it takes is paper. Well, alright, some tape too, and definitely a bucket or trash can for the rodents to land in, but that’s about it! Just fold the paper, bait the end, and hang it halfway over a ledge. By the time the rat realizes that the bottom won’t hold its weight, it’ll be too late. Keep in mind that rats and mice are amazing jumpers and could free themselves depending on how large the container is, or if there’s water in it.
Even after setting out the unset rat traps and following the procedure in step #9, you may still have rats that will not go into the snap traps. There are alpha and beta rats in a rat population. The first rats to be caught in snap traps are the beta rats (inferior rats). The superior alpha rats are much more cautious around the snap traps. At this point, use a live trap. Rodenticides may be another choice for you at this point. Rodent baits (the strong single feed baits) are more costly, but will cause much more pressure on the rodent population as they readily take the bait and die.
Okay, okay, so maybe you want to make something that doesn’t require any tools or drilling or snipping. You’ve still got a whole bunch of options! Like for example, this neat cable-tie trap. We know it requires a tool, but it’s not what you think! In this case the tool is being used as a weight, which is what pulls the cable tie together, essentially trapping the rat.
Position rat traps to maximize the chances of rats to cross over the traps during their natural travels along their runways. Set snap traps extended at a right angle from a wall with the trigger end almost touching the wall. If rat traps are set parallel to the wall, set them in pairs with triggers situated to intercept the rats from either direction.
Thank you for posting this information. I wish people would see rats and all animals, as living beings and place themselves in the place of the animal, before they consider harming it. I may be biased about rats and there is a “Big” difference between a domesticated rat and a wild one. I have or “had” 3 rats. I have 2 males that live inside, in a 6′ tall cage that I built for them. My two boys have wanted every kind of pet one can think of and as wth most kids, they soon lose their attraction and stop caring for them as they once did. Of course, I make my boys spend time with and care for their pets; however, I am the one who ends up really attatched to them and spending most of the time interacting with them. My rats, actually, have a following on Facebook and Youtube. They are two of the cleanest, loving, funny, intelligent critters I have ever owned. I, also, have 4 dogs: 3 of which I adopted thru my work with rescue organizations. I intened to foster them, until they were adopted, but, they were such cute puppies, my family fell in love and we kept them. My oldest dog is 15 and is blind. The other three, all grown now, watch over him and lead him around, when we go out to the ranch, where they can run free, with no harness or leash attached. The three of them are females and they treat the rats as if they were they offspring. I have to get the rats out, every evening, so the dogs can groom them and make sure they are okay. One of the dogs takes food and leaves it at the door of their cage. It’s a daily ritual that she goes thru. You can count on their being food at the door, each time you check the rats. We feed the rats left-over food and I buy them corn-on-the-cobb, which they love. The funny thing is, they are cleaner than my kids. After they eat their corn, they place the cobb in their litter box, as they do all their trash. People don’t realize that rats figured the sanitation thing out long before humans. I guess that’s why they have been so successful, as a species.
For me, these traps have to be baited properly in order to catch rats. I use peanut butter, but I don’t just dab some on the copper tab. I use a qtip with the tip soaked in peanut butter, cut the tip off the stick, and lodge that under the point on the trigger plate. I then dab some on top of that to entice the rats. Once the rats run across the trap they will try to nibble the qtip tip that is lodged under the trigger plate, then snap! Rats are smart, if you just dab some on the trigger plate itself, they will just lick it off, evading the trap. If you bait the plate where they have to nibble at it, you’ll get great results everytime!
Top Tip : I bought this trap after I’d dealt with quite a bad rat infestation problem in my chicken run. It takes out one rat at a time, so if you have evidence of a large number of rats you need to get them under control first. See here for options and further advice.
There is a pest control guy who comes into our apartment and spray our apartment unit every Monday. After inhaling the fumes from the spray I developed severe allergy. Then I bought one of those electronic pest control and plugged it in one of my wall sucket, and I’m happy to say I got rid of the roaches in my apartment unit.
Folks, Do as I say… Find, Bengal Roach Spray. It’s made in Baton Rouge,LA, I believe. Spray it near your doors inside and out and trust me, after they crawl out to die, that’s the last you will see for months. It’s odorless. Matter of fact, it’s so odor free, I wasn’t even sure if it was actually spraying.
Decided to try some traps, guess what !? Spent another $60 for 2 traps in vain. No rats were caught in almost a month, nevertheless rats became less and less shy, sometimes appearing in broad daylight.
Pest Control Rat Traps (Set of 6) by Kat Sense | Humane Rat Trap for 100% Kill Results | Safe & Sanitary Rodent Killer with Bait Cup | Effective Anti-Rodent Infestation Solution | Reusable & Mess Free
The Victor Electronic Rat Trap is easy-to-use. Start by inserting four ‘C’ batteries into the battery compartment and replacing the cover. Then, using a Q-tip or toothpick (to avoid leaving your scent), add an enticing rat snack like peanut butter or dry pet food through the hole in the back wall of the trap. Place the rat trap where there are signs of rodent activity. Since rats typically travel along the edge of a room, the trap can also be placed lengthwise along the wall with the bait side closest to the wall. Flip the switch to ‘on’, and it’s good to go—a green light will blink once and a short buzzing sound will be heard to verify it’s working.
Recognize behavioral differences between rodents. Aside from favoring certain types of bait, rats and mice have very different temperaments that lead to important behavioral differences. Rats are naturally cautious, while mice tend to be curious. Be aware of seasonal behaviors too. Trap squirrels in late spring and early winter in particular, as this can prevent breeding.
The Victor Electronic Rat Trap is an innovative solution in rodent control. It works by delivering a humane, high-voltage shock to effectively kill the invading rat, while the 3-plate design prevents escapes. This powerful device is capable of killing up to 50 rats per set of fully charged batteries (4 “C”), making it a great value when you’re dealing with a sizable infestation. It’s also easy to use! Get started by simply applying a small amount of high-protein bait, such as peanut butter or hazelnut spread, on the back wall of the trap, place the trap in a location with rodent activity and turn it on.
This is done by eliminating the sources of rat food and water from the buildings in question, including fixing leaky indoor and outdoor taps and cleaning up food spills promptly. Storage of both human and pet food should be in containers which the rats cannot easily chew through (metal, ceramic or glass). Food waste should not be tossed on the ground around the structure, garbage cans must be secured. Bird feeder spillage must be cleaned up promptly—bird seed is a prime attractant to rats, particularly in an urban or suburban environment.
Remove the paper label. Use you’re ice pick or drill to bore a hole in the center of the can lid. If you plan to reuse the liquid, turn the can over and bore another hole in the bottom of the can over a container. This will vent the can and empty in a few minutes.
We’ve had a mice problem for years, tried traps which work but I hate emptying them. Also had a problem in the garage, mice put grass seed in the car’s air filter. I bought two of the small plug in ultasonic and put them in the garage, no clue if they work yet. Then one in the bedroom where I could hear them scratching about at night and early morning up in the attic (where I cannot get to). The first night heard the mice for a few minutes, then nothing. The second night heard them for a few seconds then nothing since and it’s been 3 weeks. I’ve since plugged 4 into the basement to cover all walls and no mice have been caught in the traps and can’t see any evidence they’ve been there. As far as I’m concerned they work, tho for how long, don’t know.
About 1 year ago I also had problem with rats. And I looked for answers “How to get rid of house rats”. I really hate this animals. But I still think, that self made trap – isn’t good idea. Firstly, it’s not effective. Secondly, it’s too cruel. Rat can dying for a few days. I prefer electronic trap.
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