I have (so far) not had to deal with rats, but in my yard, grounds and garden I had an infestation of chipmunks or ground squirrels as some call them. They were the most persistent vermin I ever encountered and were NOT nocturnal. They liked to dig and run through burrows, and would strip a tomato plant in one day by taking a bite from every fruit. AND, it was illegal to shoot, trap or poison them (“wildlife protection!”) So I had to take a stealthier route as the wife’s stupid dog would probably have eaten any poison baits.
Cage traps are metal or wire boxes containing bait (non-poisonous) to entice the normally cautious rodent. A food ball is placed inside the trap; removing or eating the food triggers a mechanism that snaps the entry gate closed, confining the rodent without injury. Cage traps must be monitored closely—a trapped rat will die of stress and dehydration if not taken outside and released promptly.
Actually bought these to catch a couple of mice which somehow snuck into my basement(open door perhaps)from my backyard. These boards are very effective in catching mice. Put 2 down the first day I received them and BAM!, the next morning both mice were caught, on the same trap. DMOPC also offers these with the tunnel type covering to protect as much as possible against dust and dirt from catching on the trap which extends the adhesion of the trap. Also offered as “the more the buy, the more you save”. Great buy! Would purchase again.
If you find yourself in this situation and are in need of some mass exporting (of course, I’m talking about the mice here, not your extended family members), here are a few simple DIY mouse traps that you can make out of several items that you probably already have around the house.
A lot of people are suspicious of whether home rat traps will really work or not. Anyway, the reality of the situation is that if you make them correctly. Also put them in the right areas of your home where there is high population of rodents. It is sometimes unclear why originally built rodent traps may not work to rid you of rats while homemade ones will work successfully, but it happens.
2. Bait the trap with a high-protein substance, such as peanut butter, chocolate or hazelnut spread. Place the bait on the metal bait pedal using a Q-Tip, toothpick or another tool to avoid spreading your scent.
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If you don’t think it’s appropriate to drop the tube into a garbage pail several feet below the upper-story landing, you could affix the whole tube with a piece of string to the landing itself. That way, instead of dropping down into the garbage pail when the mouse triggered the trap, the tube would drop away and dangle harmlessly off the ledge until you recovered it.
I haven’t used them yet but I bought 5 of them for 2 dollars n some change each off eBay ….so I spent 11 dollars n change all together for 5 of them…..I got a new apartment. .the neighbor has a infestation of roaches..so there where roaches..and spiders..omg.. I used insect fogger in each room …a boric acid ..and roach gel in the corners and crevasses…I haven’t moved in yet ..even though I’ve only seen 1 roach everytime I visit…so I just hope these ultrasonic things work..and keep everything out ..I have a 1 year old..we can’t live in there until every insect is out
Other non-lethal traps include the “bucket trap”, literally little more than a large plastic or metal bucket which has a piece of wood propped against it. Food bait is placed at the bottom of the bucket. Rats climb up the “ramp”, go for the food then find they cannot climb out of the trap. Again, these must be monitored carefully and the rats released outside promptly. This type of rat trap can be easily converted to a humane killing trap by filling the bucket about a third full with water. Most rats will drown within two minutes, although Norway rats are strong swimmers and it could take far longer for them to exhaust themselves and succumb.
Place a trash can beneath the tube. The can should be wide enough to accommodate the falling tube. Place a small pillow, soft cloth, or pad on the bottom of the can to cushion the tube and mouse who will soon be trapped within.
Apparently these have been modified into an inferior design. I had a few (I guess) older model mouse traps that were working fine. I bought four more to spread around, not thinking the design would be any different. But these new ones are impossible to keep set, if you can latch the bar at all. Had one snap while I was baiting another one, with nothing triggering it. The second one snapped as I was trying to place it by sliding it ever-so-gently across the smooth floor. Both happened after several attempts at latching, including grabbing some pliers so the bar might stay put. They are going into the trash. I can catch air easily enough without a trap, but I guess it was fun while it lasted. I couldn’t care less about a refund. I’ll consider the price a lesson learned, and cherish my remaining old ones until wild mice are extinct. Anyone know where I can find some more old ones?
After reading many interesting comments, thought I should share my experience. I have used two bigger ultrasonic pest repellent units (Black & Decker EP1100-A) for last ten plus years for rodents and similar larger pests – One in backyard and one in garage; and didn’t have a single rodent or similar pest anywhere near the house. I don’t have anything to prove the cause and effect relationship, but we do think it works, at least for larger pests. We also have a few smaller pluggable units inside house and never had a single cockroach in the house.
I live in an apartment had have used ultrasonic pest control for 10 years. A few months after moving in we had a mouse problem, put down those sticky pads and bought my first ultrasonic plug ins and have been using them since 2006. After the initial problem, we spotted a rodent in Nov, 2011, rfreshed the units and no more problems until Sep 2015, which kind of surprised me because we change them every 18 months. We replaced the units and replaced them again in April of this year. It is now October and we have suddenly becme infested even though. Even though the units were replaced just 6 months ago,, we replaced them yesterday, and put down sticky pads. I’m hoping this will get rid of the disgusting things at least for the next 6 months (when we plan to move). I don’t know what happened. The plug ins worked for us for 10 years. Now I feel dirty and feel like everything in the house needs to be scoured, but I need the rodents gone first. I do have a spray I can use, but it smells so bad It kept everyone around here choking for hours.
I set this glue trap for this mouse cause it was destroying my stuff every night. It was successfull but was bad as it when the mouse gets stuck to the trap it cant escape and it dies from hunger, and weakness from trying continuously from freeing itself and it dies after 4-5 days of struggle. This stuff is inhumane I felt so bad for the poor little thing that i freed it, which was the hardest thing to do, and left in and open field.
For mice, choose a trap that can hold multiple mice with a rotating trap door. Victor makes several different models that are smaller and designed to catch multiple mice in this way. Since they can catch multiple mice (sometimes as many as a dozen!) without being emptied, they also require less maintenance.
There are various methods available for people who want to know how to get rid of rats, but if you decide to make an ideal home rat trap with the help of materials at hand, use any of the following methods:
There’s a bug spray thats available at kmart. Spray around the outside of house. Wont hurt your pets, dogs , cats ,fish, lizards, Then spray at base boards on inside of house. NO spiders , bugs, When the bugs come out there a pain. those mosquito plants work. And I used Bell &Howell Pest Repellers as far as I could tell they were working with the mice. Bugs come out from April to October. But I used Decon for my mice. Put pest Repellers in every room of house & basement. Use inside & outside spray as needed.
It might be best not to completely rely on these devices for pest control. Your best bet is to call your local Orkin Branch Office and have an Orkin Pest Specialist come to your home and provide you with a thorough rodent inspection. Your Orkin Pest Specialist will develop a customized, scientifically proven, treatment protocol that best fits your needs.
On the end of the planks that hang over the buckets, smear a bit of peanut butter to attract rats. Attach longer boards on the other end of the boxes for the rats to crawl up. Rodents are nice climbers and can get to a food source in any place.
This is a particularly loud and drawn out squeak, a sign of fear and extreme protest. It is rare outside of introductions and even in introductions it does not occur in the majority of cases. Generally it is uttered by a rat who does not know what to do in that situation and is completely lost in its fear and sees no way out of the situation. It is most often found in young rats who have not developed any ratty social skills, an older rat more sure of its self physically is likely to attack. The rat screaming will often stand on hind legs in the boxing position but rather than facing forward will be cowering backwards into a nearby wall.
– A little bit of bait goes a long way. Make sure to secure the bait using the hook or try and put the peanut butter, jerky, cheese, twine, cotton balls etc. In a place where the rats can’t just lick them or take them off and walk away. You want them to be have to rug at that part of the trap in order to activate it.
These are certainly sticky enough. However, some mice will learn to avoid them or other traps. Then I will use a bunch of these to build a physical barrier so that mice can’t go where they want to without stepping on one.
Alternatively, you can also use cat’s litter. However, if the rat is infected with toxoplasmosis, it strangely may actually be attracted to cats and cat litter (a very weird side effect of the disease)
Location, Location, Location Set the baited trap in areas where you have noticed high levels of rodent activity. Rodents tend to travel along walls, so placement in this location often works best. For maximum effectiveness, use multiple traps, placed at 2 to 3 foot intervals to increase results. Place the trap with the baited end flush against the wall.
You’ll find a lot of conflicting advice about this. I’ve found four things that seem to work well : peanut butter, cheese, bacon bits and mashed up cat food. You don’t need a lot of it – on this trap a smear will work well.
The concept here is that the larger end of the plate, the side without the bait on it, is being held by the buckets edge, to give the mouse support enough to walk onto the plate and make it’s way to the bait.
Read our library of Frequently Asked Questions to find immediate answers about rodent traps, bait types, trap placements, repellents and much more. Solve your rodent problems.If you have a question not answered below, please feel free to contact us.
The base of this snap trap is made from Forest Stewardship Council-sourced wood harvested from environmentally-monitored forests. The wood has been kiln dried and will not warp. The traps metal pedal has four releases for greater success in catching rats. The trap has a copper-steel wire bow. Two springs are oil-tempered for efficiency.
Since rats prefer enclosed, safe locations, use Protecta Bait Stations with the T-Rex Snap Traps. These stations will shelter the rat; encouraging it to enter and protect non-targeted animals and children from the harm of the snap trap. The Victor Snap Traps are fine traps, but its height will not fit into bait stations. If this is the case, you can get a cardboard box, cut holes in it and place it over the Victor Snap Trap. This method is not tampered resistant, however.
It’s important to re-state, though, that I used it only after I’d spent time getting rid of a large infestation of rodents in my chicken run. Until you have the population under control this trap won’t be of much use because it can only kill one at a time.
To keep rodents away from your home, eliminate food sources by keeping counter surfaces, floors, and cabinets clean, and store dry food and “pet” food in chew-proof containers. Seal trash cans (use bungee cords on lids) and never feed companion animals outside.
I have tried electronic zappers without success. Some larger critter(s) must reach in and snatch the bait without getting a fatal charge. And I briefly tried rat poison before realizing that birds and animals eating the poisoned rats were likely to be poisoned to some degree.
There is an old saying, once attributed to Ralph Waldo Emerson: “Build a better mousetrap and the world will beat a path to your door.” Whether Emerson said it or not, it is a truism that has been embraced by society, and is reflected in the fact that traps to catch both mice and rats are the most frequently invented (or is that reinvented?) device in U.S. History.
We caught chipmunks in our backyard with the department store cages. I decided to use the big corded ultrasound device, that my dad loves having in the basement for bugs, on a chipmunk in a cage. On all 10 supposed frequencies this God-mode device has, like the loud one for squirrels and down to the anti-bedbug, the chipmunk didn’t react one bit!
DESCRIPTION:Victor Rat traps work very well and kill rats instantly. They are strong and durable enough to kill even the largest rats with ease. Victor Rat snap traps work best when baited with sticky bait (i.e. peanut butter) to ensure that the rat will disturb the trigger mechanism even if the rat touches the bait only lightly. 1 case = 12 traps.