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This DIY mouse trap gets an A+ for simplicity and although I haven’t used it yet, it’s obvious it would work and therefore gets the scratchy smelling sticker for operability. The concept is the mouse scurries under the glass to get the peanut butter while knocking the nickel loose causing the glass to fall onto the mouse.
I set this glue trap for this mouse cause it was destroying my stuff every night. It was successfull but was bad as it when the mouse gets stuck to the trap it cant escape and it dies from hunger, and weakness from trying continuously from freeing itself and it dies after 4-5 days of struggle. This stuff is inhumane I felt so bad for the poor little thing that i freed it, which was the hardest thing to do, and left in and open field.
We had field mice come in, bought a plug in repellant, we put poison down and got rid of them. We kept the repellant plugged in since this was 3years ago. Now, for the past few evenings we have heard noise in the loft. Thinking it could be a squirrel we went and had a look. Going by droppings could be a rat. No damage so far so put poison in, but wondering the plug in could be working. Also, it works through the electrics in your home. Hopefully sonic noise driving it crazy.
The base of this snap trap is made from Forest Stewardship Council-sourced wood harvested from environmentally-monitored forests. The wood has been kiln dried and will not warp. The traps metal pedal has four releases for greater success in catching rats. The trap has a copper-steel wire bow. Two springs are oil-tempered for efficiency.
Try using a glass bowl as your main catcher. All this trap requires is a few household items and a delicate touch, and you’ll have a super simple, but effective trap on your hands! If you’ve got a really curious rat lurking around, this might be the perfect way to catch him without all the fancy crafting.
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We caught chipmunks in our backyard with the department store cages. I decided to use the big corded ultrasound device, that my dad loves having in the basement for bugs, on a chipmunk in a cage. On all 10 supposed frequencies this God-mode device has, like the loud one for squirrels and down to the anti-bedbug, the chipmunk didn’t react one bit!
In our warehouse we were having issues with mice not rats so we tried the mice traps sold by same company but the adhesive on the mice traps are too weak.So we went to the Rat size glue traps which uses a stronger adhesive. Place them out per instructions and place Peanut Butter in the middle of the traps and next business day caught multiple on each trap. Now no more mice.
Then, position boxes of equal height next to the buckets. Place thin wood planks on the boxes and have them overhang into the middle of the buckets. The planks should fall into the buckets easily when a little bit of pressure is applied to the end of it.
Even after setting out the unset rat traps and following the procedure in step #9, you may still have rats that will not go into the snap traps. There are alpha and beta rats in a rat population. The first rats to be caught in snap traps are the beta rats (inferior rats). The superior alpha rats are much more cautious around the snap traps. At this point, use a live trap. Rodenticides may be another choice for you at this point. Rodent baits (the strong single feed baits) are more costly, but will cause much more pressure on the rodent population as they readily take the bait and die.
Every home I lived in I would purchase an electronic repellent. I did because I am terrified of rats. well I never had a rat in my home or around it from my knowledge but I felt like it was because I’ve always had the repellents plugged in. Well in this new home im in lately I’ve been seeing them run across my privacy gate. I have the plugs all around the house and its not working seeing them on the fence and just tonight actually seen one on the ground. Sorry for the long story but no they do not work!!!!! Plus there’s lizards and other type of little bugs that be by my back door even with the 3 plugs plugged in
THIS is an exceptional electronic execution chamber for rats! I reviewed all of the brands available and chose this one as my best prospect, and I was right. What surprised me though is the fact that very little of the trap’s advantages were advertised before I purchased it. For instance, the clever physical design of the chamber resists the rat’s auto-response once electricity begins to flow and prevents him from spontaneously “leaping away” from the deadly electric panels. Also, since having caught/killed several rats, I noticed that the bait is always consumed before the rat is electrocuted — I suspect that there is 5-or-so seconds delay before the electricity flows, giving the rat time settle down and become less alert while enjoying the bait… then, it’s all over for him with a 2-minute constant electrical surge that kills him and assures no quick spontaneous restart of his heart… on a small scale perhaps, but some real engineering! My compliments to Victor. (BTW, the green light is not very good, but who cares)
they where great my fault just a little too large could have done with a size just a little smaller not sure there is such a thing ? they just eat the bait without trap going off as you can see I am a novice thanks
When rats take up residence under the kitchen sink, a rat trap is often required to evict the pesky visitors. Snap traps are thought of as the more humane lethal rat trap, killing rats quickly. Snap traps also dont pose the health risks affiliated with rat poisons.
Set up four traps with dabs of peanut butter. Mice have licked them clean without setting off traps. I pick up the traps and they go off. These mice are outsmarting me. They’re probably staring at me and laughing: “Ya right!”. Victor should hire them for their Research and Developing department or maybe CEO.
Q.I am having great difficulty setting the “easy set” traps. There is little difference between firm & sensitive settings. Bring back the metal latches, I could set those. These new traps are totally useless to me.
Place a piece of food on the construction paper. Place the food — cheese, a piece of candy, or bread — along the edge of the coffee can directly opposite the point at which the ruler, paint stirring stick, or other ramp-like object you’ve affixed to the coffee can meets the can’s mouth.
Bait the tube. Place a piece of cheese, candy, or bread in the far end of the tube. Ensure it is of sufficient mass to attract a mouse but not so heavy that it will significantly alter the weight of the tube. Do not choose foods which are sticky or gummy; they can be hard to get all the way down the tube.
The rat, enticed into the box by a yummy treat at the entrance and smeared on the back wall , steps on a metal plate. This triggers an electric shock which – as long as the batteries are full or nearly full – kills within a couple of seconds.
Place a trash can beneath the tube. The can should be wide enough to accommodate the falling tube. Place a small pillow, soft cloth, or pad on the bottom of the can to cushion the tube and mouse who will soon be trapped within.
For me, these traps have to be baited properly in order to catch rats. I use peanut butter, but I don’t just dab some on the copper tab. I use a qtip with the tip soaked in peanut butter, cut the tip off the stick, and lodge that under the point on the trigger plate. I then dab some on top of that to entice the rats. Once the rats run across the trap they will try to nibble the qtip tip that is lodged under the trigger plate, then snap! Rats are smart, if you just dab some on the trigger plate itself, they will just lick it off, evading the trap. If you bait the plate where they have to nibble at it, you’ll get great results everytime!
This stuff is a little more robust as indicated by my first rat victim on the first night. However; I found the glue trap 15 feet from the trap location upside down with no rat attached. I saw the signs of the rat hair in the glue, but, it could not hold him down. My extermination company says the rats urinate themselves free from glue traps.
Basically how this works is the mouse makes his way up the ramp, through the hole and because you put the peanut butter on the far end of the can, he is forced to step on the can, which will spin, ultimately leading to the mouse to fall into the bucket where you have water deep enough that the mouse will drown.
in 2005 I bought a new Acura. Rat damage to the wiring cost $1,500 to repair. I placed a Victor ultrasonic repeller under each (2 cars) engine ( replacing with a new unit about every 4 years). No problems until a month ago- our 2015 Subaru had $2,300 worth of damage to the wiring. Checked the repeller- the light was working, but no sound. (The other still works, no damage.) Replaced the defective unit. They work, but must be loud and close.
This trap is smaller than the metal ones we’ve used in the past but improved in some ways. I especially like the peanut butter bait cup and the way it’s located so the critters can smell but not eat it till they’ve scurried inside. Our vehicles seem to invite mice and rats into their engine compartments for nest building and this trap is small enough to rest inside in a variety of places. I sourced the cardboard container to make a sign that I hang from the steering wheel as a reminder to remove it before driving off. Overall this is the least messy way of disposing of dead pests you’re likely to find..
A. Use a glue board rather than a glue tray. Or if you use a glue board, place it where it is lower than the rest of the floor. A glue trap has an edge that the rodent will stop to inspect. A glue board does not.