The Victor Electronic Rat Trap is the ultimate in rodent control. It works by delivering a humane, high-voltage shock to effectively kill the invading rat. This powerful device is capable of killing up to 50 rats per set of fully charged batteries (4 C), making it a great value when you’re dealing with a sizable infestation. It’s also easy to use! Get started by simply applying a high protein bait in the provided bait cup, place the trap in a location with high rodent activity and turn it on. The trap is equipped with advanced smart circuit technology, which senses when a rat enters the tunnel, triggering the system to deliver a humane, high-voltage shock once the rat steps on the electrified plate. Since rats have the ability to restart their hearts after an electrical shock, this trap applies shock for 2 minutes to ensure higher kill rates. After making a catch, a green LED light blinks to indicate a kill. For your convenience, the trap’s design allows you to easily dispose of the dead rodent without having to see or touch it. The new and improved design of the electronic trap has a removable kill chamber, which provides better plate access so you can easily clean and bait it in between uses. These traps require no poison or chemicals and can be used anywhere inside your home or business to ensure years of effective rat control.
after quite the outdoor rat infestation, we are now living rat-free 🙂 … thanks to these very effective Victor traps! (and, other items & measures taken below) … the following is what we learned, during our lil’ rat war this past 2017 summer;
I bought four of the plugin ones off Amazon. They specify the range they work and we get mice in our basement. I plugged them all in downstairs except one I put in my garage. Surprisingly they did work, even on spiders. This was two years ago I think, but a few months ago they stopped working. They may of stopped working sooner because a year ago two stray cats made a home of my garage and the deal was they can stay and I will feed them if they catch mice lol. Which they do lol.
This DIY mouse trap gets an A+ for simplicity and although I haven’t used it yet, it’s obvious it would work and therefore gets the scratchy smelling sticker for operability. The concept is the mouse scurries under the glass to get the peanut butter while knocking the nickel loose causing the glass to fall onto the mouse.
Place the trap in an enticing position. Place it in areas like along a wall or a high-traffic area near a mouse hole. When the mouse enters the bottle to eat the cheese, pull back on the string looped around the skewer sticking out of the bottle’s bottom. The bottle will snap closed on the mouse, trapping it within.
Recognize behavioral differences between rodents. Aside from favoring certain types of bait, rats and mice have very different temperaments that lead to important behavioral differences. Rats are naturally cautious, while mice tend to be curious. Be aware of seasonal behaviors too. Trap squirrels in late spring and early winter in particular, as this can prevent breeding.
Once crimped, insert the wire into both holes. You will need to bend the second side of the wire to get it in the hole. Just straighten the wire after it’s through the hole. Center the can over the bucket opening and bend the spare wire on the outside of the bucket around the bucket rim to keep the can centered over the bucket.
Electronic rat traps are one of the best solutions for a no-touch, no-see experience. Victor® electric rat traps deliver high-voltage lethal shocks to eliminate rats in your home. Just one electronic rat trap by Victor® has the power to eliminate a small rodent infestation. An easy indicator light will let you know right away that you have trapped a rat.
If allergy season has passed and you find that you are still experiencing the stuffy nose, itchy eyes, coughing, rash outbreaks or respiratory issues that regularly plague you at that time, you might be suffering from an allergic reaction to mice in your home. Read More »
Alternatively, you can also use cat’s litter. However, if the rat is infected with toxoplasmosis, it strangely may actually be attracted to cats and cat litter (a very weird side effect of the disease)
Second, cover the entire floor of the mesh cage by a piece of metal plate placed on the bottom of the cage. Then, place some solid food for baiting on the metal plate near the back of the trap. It can be a bit of peanut butter, meat, fruit.
PETA often fields calls from people who have discovered small “nontarget” animals hopelessly trapped on these sticky boards. One distraught woman found a glue trap with a bird, two frogs, and a salamander stuck to its surface. All the animals were still alive when she found them but died later, despite her efforts to free them.
After inspecting the rat infested areas, place the rat glue boards in those areas. Place the glue traps directly in their runways. Rats usually travel along baseboards and walls, since they use the walls for guidance. Place glue traps where there has been rodent activity.
Epic fail! The Victor rat trap trigger had been stripped of peanut butter and was dangling from the bucket. Now what? DRG suggested that the “Stairway to Heaven” was not wide enough and the Victor trap needed to be placed, as designed, flat on the floor. I reset the trap and anchored it. I’ve had rats drag traps out of reach before. Rotting rat inside a wall is not pleasant!
I purchased two Bell & Howell devices from Ross Stores for $7.99 each. Can’t say for sure yet whether or not they are working. Just about the time I get comfortable is when I see a new roach. I keep a swifter floor mop handy and smash them to death. The surface is nice and flat, I just have to be quick enough. My next option is to move back to the Northeast where we never had roaches, just spiders and mice.
The modified snap trap approach is a little more difficult to make but can provide good results; A rat snap trap, coffee can, small gauge wire and some hardware cloth with some screws is what you’ll need. First attach the trap to the can by screwing the wood just under the tongue (trigger) to the front of the can. Next cut the cloth about a 1/2 inch bigger than the size of the can. Place the cloth on the back side of the can and mold the edges slightly down around the edges. The concave or protruding side up, use your wire to attach it to the spring loaded snap wire of the trap. The long trigger release arm goes through the cloth and sets the trigger. Test the trap out to make sure the release arm does not block the cloth from covering the entire mouth of the can when it shuts. Bait the back of the can with nuts or peanut butter and set the trap. (you can also attach a board for stability to the back of the can) Catch the mouse alive and release him away from the home.
Once the wire is through both ends, make sure the wire extends a few inches past the bucket on both edges. With the threaded can centered over the bucket, crimp the wire at both ends of the can. This will keep the can sliding to the edge of the bucket which would defeat the trap.
Generally a rat is more likely to scream if it is cornered, otherwise choosing to run away. In some cases the youngster screams with little or no provocation, just as soon as it feels trapped. In these cases it seems to be linked to testosterone level, so neutering has helped rats in the past, this brings them to a lower energy level and encourages submission which quickly resolves the situation. In some cases though a scream is a legitimate fear reaction to extreme bullying. It can also occur if a rat is trapped or badly injured, again fear and being unable to escape, but also pain. Overall if a rat is screaming it needs to be investigated quickly and the rats separated. The only exception to this is potentially if a new rat is screaming with no provocation or aggressive behaviour from its new cage mates, then they may benefit from being confined in a small space with their new cage mates well observed until they realise they are not going to be hurt,
• bait type matters!: we first tried peanut butter with no results on the rats, but it resulted in some very unfortunate collateral damage to other rodents… so, we switched to raw bacon, and, while the other rodents were disinterested, the rats can not resist… and, snap!
THIS is an exceptional electronic execution chamber for rats! I reviewed all of the brands available and chose this one as my best prospect, and I was right. What surprised me though is the fact that very little of the trap’s advantages were advertised before I purchased it. For instance, the clever physical design of the chamber resists the rat’s auto-response once electricity begins to flow and prevents him from spontaneously “leaping away” from the deadly electric panels. Also, since having caught/killed several rats, I noticed that the bait is always consumed before the rat is electrocuted — I suspect that there is 5-or-so seconds delay before the electricity flows, giving the rat time settle down and become less alert while enjoying the bait… then, it’s all over for him with a 2-minute constant electrical surge that kills him and assures no quick spontaneous restart of his heart… on a small scale perhaps, but some real engineering! My compliments to Victor. (BTW, the green light is not very good, but who cares)
I know this is an old post, but you actually want the stairway to heaven in line with the wire. The vermin will attempt to high wire in an effort to get to the bait. If it doesn’t make it to the can, it loses its balance and will try to gain foot on the can. Then it’s bye bye Ratzilla!
It is a stinky process but one of the best ways to prevent these rodents. Take some cow dung cakes and spread them in your attic or garden. When rats eat the cow dung, it will inflame their stomach and lead them to die. Thus, helps get rid of rats outside the house.
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Excellent. Caught rats I had been after with boards that had less “stick em.” Will buy again! I even cut the piece off that had the dead critter on it and kept using the remainder. Lay a piece of paper on the sticky part and cut through it. Helps keep scissors from getting stuck to board.
The Tomcat Glue Traps with Eugenol for Enhanced Stickiness (Rat Size) are the pesticide-free, non-toxic way to effectively control rats. The Eugenol formula provides enhanced stickiness for superior gripping power—rats are stuck as soon as they step onto the trap. And, traps are kid and pet friendly.
A: Remove the small staple holding the locking bar to the wood base. Place bait inside curl found at the end of the bait pedal. Pull back bow and hold down with thumb. With other hand, engage the curved portion locking bar under the small, V-shaped lip on the bait pedal.
The manufacturer doesn’t recommend using peanut butter, but if you insist on it like I do, they recommend that you smear it on the inside of the rear metal plate between the holes, so it doesn’t ooze onto the metal plate or electronics. That’s what I did. I baited the trap and *LEFT IT TURNED OFF* for a few days so the rats would get comfortable with it, as recommended. When I checked the trap after a few days, they had polished it clean of peanut butter.
Apparently these have been modified into an inferior design. I had a few (I guess) older model mouse traps that were working fine. I bought four more to spread around, not thinking the design would be any different. But these new ones are impossible to keep set, if you can latch the bar at all. Had one snap while I was baiting another one, with nothing triggering it. The second one snapped as I was trying to place it by sliding it ever-so-gently across the smooth floor. Both happened after several attempts at latching, including grabbing some pliers so the bar might stay put. They are going into the trash. I can catch air easily enough without a trap, but I guess it was fun while it lasted. I couldn’t care less about a refund. I’ll consider the price a lesson learned, and cherish my remaining old ones until wild mice are extinct. Anyone know where I can find some more old ones?
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Place the trap where you have seen signs of rodent activity or along the wall where rodents primarily travel. The end of the trap where the metal pedal is baited should be placed flush against the wall.
Glue-trap manufacturers generally direct consumers to throw away animals along with the trap, leaving the animals to suffer for days until they finally die of stress, starvation, or dehydration—all cruel and painful deaths.
Many companies—including CVS, Dollar Tree, Rite Aid, and Walgreens—have stopped selling glue traps, and many other businesses have stopped using the traps after hearing from concerned customers. Unfortunately, some companies continue to sell these vile devices.
We found ourselves inundated with rats this spring. I tried four other brands before trying these. These are the best at attracting and keeping the rats stuck once they got in the glue. I’ve already ordered 60 of them. I hope I won’t need more but if I do these are the only ones I will buy.
Designed for indoor use or anywhere it’s not exposed to outdoor elements, the reusable Victor Electronic Rat Trap provides years of effective rat control—perfect for attics, garages, basements, and sheds. The trap does not use any poisons or chemicals, but as with any electronic device, it should be used with caution around children and pets.
Do not use a trash can which is too wide. If you do, it’s possible the tube will come to rest on an angle, rather than straight up and down. If that happens, the mouse will be able to climb out of the tube easily.
Check your traps frequently. Empty your traps, re-bait them, and reset them as quickly as possible. If a certain bait worked, use it again. Nonetheless, vary the bait from time to time. Change the bait you’re using from time to time to increase a trap’s appeal. For instance, switch from one type of food to another, or, with mice, switch from food to nesting material.
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We had field mice come in, bought a plug in repellant, we put poison down and got rid of them. We kept the repellant plugged in since this was 3years ago. Now, for the past few evenings we have heard noise in the loft. Thinking it could be a squirrel we went and had a look. Going by droppings could be a rat. No damage so far so put poison in, but wondering the plug in could be working. Also, it works through the electrics in your home. Hopefully sonic noise driving it crazy.
These are the best electronic Brogdon Taylor’s I have ever found. I have bought every conceivable type of this product from Amazon from the terminator to the rat zapper. None of them work like this one. I specially love the Easley accessible baked door in the back and a large opening in the front which can these are the best electronic rodent killer’s I have ever found. I have bought every conceivable type of this product from Amazon from the terminator to the rat zapper. None of them work like this one. I specially love the Easley accessible Baecht door in the back and a large opening in the front which Makes for easy wiping down and cleaning. I executed three rats the first three nights I had this so I am truly a fan.
You see a shadow move from out of the corner of your eye. Then, you start noticing droppings along your baseboards, in the pantry, and maybe even on the kitchen countertops. You might as well face it—you have rodents. Once you get over the “yuck” factor, there are some simple, no-nonsense steps you can take to deal with the problem. Whatever you encounter, Tomcat has you covered with a wide variety of options to suit your individual needs and preferences.
They are easy to set up. I am not sure if “love” is the right way to describe how I feel about using these, but they certainly work great. We have had mice getting into our garage and these traps keep catching them. We put some poison stations right near them so the mice have to go across the glue pad first. We have also caught other insects like crickets, so they are multi-purpose. I will probably be ordering more of these to keep using year round because they do exactly what they promise.