I am a believer. I use a three stage approach: warfarin in baits outside and a combo of glue traps and a single Victor trap. After two days, I got my first one in the kitchen with the Victor. Placement is the key. If you see mouse poops, that is a good place along the wall in a dark corner. Disposal is easy and it never got soiled with the first mouse. But if I get another mouse kill, I will clean it out to be sure it is attractive with the peanut butter on the bait cup.
I baited a few of them with peanut butter around 7pm and heard a very satisfying *SNAP!* at around 1am. Checked the traps and I had my first clean kill. The rodent was about 5″ in length and fairly large. Technically you can reuse these traps but for the price I was happy to just throw the entire unit away and set down another one.
put one in the barn next to feed barrels it was sad it caught a bird instead. the trap worked fine though. due to the size of the trap being so large it might be a problem for small animals you are not wanting to trap. i think i’ll just use the smaller traps for everything.
In general, rat traps can be broken into two broad categories: traps intended to kill the rodent and live capture cages. Both lure the rat in with food and have the ultimate goal of removing the animal considered vermin by most people from a home or work environment.
Rats are smart. I always use surgical gloves when handling the traps and never touch whatever bait I am using, whether it be cheese, peanut butter or rotten fruit. Rats have an excellent sense of smell and will avoid human scent whenever something else is available. So until someone truly develops a better rat trap, stay with the old standard. Just be careful.
So as you can see here, you take an empty toilet paper roll and crease one side so it fits flat along the edge of a table or counter top. Balancing may be difficult at first, but that’s the concept to making this work. Once you find that sweet spot, place some peanut butter or some cracker crumbs at the end of the tube. The key is to making sure you have a tall enough bucket or bin below to where the mouse will fall as it reaches the end of the tube. Simple, cheap, and efficient. My kind of mouse trap.
Sometimes, setting the trap can be a balancing act. We recommend holding the kill bar in place with one finger, holding the metal pedal up with another finger, and latching the end of the arm bar on the metal pedal with your other hand.
Many companies—including CVS, Dollar Tree, Rite Aid, and Walgreens—have stopped selling glue traps, and many other businesses have stopped using the traps after hearing from concerned customers. Unfortunately, some companies continue to sell these vile devices.
Victor® Metal Pedal Mouse Trap The original wooden snap trap — the Victor® Metal Pedal Mouse Trap — is also the world’s No. 1 selling mouse trap. Its superior quality and effectiveness are the reason Victor® has sold more than 1 billion snap traps around the world. Likewise, professional pest control companies have made this trap their trap of choice. Trusted to control mice for more than 115 years, this trap delivers clean, instant rodent control. With this bundle, you’ll get 24 Victor® Metal Pedal Mouse Traps.
TOMCAT Glue Traps come ready to use and provide the perfect combination of immediate grip and stretchable hold. Simply open the package, separate the traps and place. For TOMCAT Glue Boards, remove the protective paper by gripping in one corner and pulling in one smooth, continuous motion. You can also use the glue boards as covered traps. First, fold around the fold lines, remove the protective paper, and then slide the tab into the slit, creating a box with two open ends for the pest to enter.
I have found a much better bait than peanut butter . . . Tootsie Rolls. Just moisten them in your mouth and place a portion on the trap. You will catch several mice/rats before you need to add more bait. Give this a try.
For me, these traps have to be baited properly in order to catch rats. I use peanut butter, but I don’t just dab some on the copper tab. I use a qtip with the tip soaked in peanut butter, cut the tip off the stick, and lodge that under the point on the trigger plate. I then dab some on top of that to entice the rats. Once the rats run across the trap they will try to nibble the qtip tip that is lodged under the trigger plate, then snap! Rats are smart, if you just dab some on the trigger plate itself, they will just lick it off, evading the trap. If you bait the plate where they have to nibble at it, you’ll get great results everytime!
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Folks, Do as I say… Find, Bengal Roach Spray. It’s made in Baton Rouge,LA, I believe. Spray it near your doors inside and out and trust me, after they crawl out to die, that’s the last you will see for months. It’s odorless. Matter of fact, it’s so odor free, I wasn’t even sure if it was actually spraying.
I set this glue trap for this mouse cause it was destroying my stuff every night. It was successfull but was bad as it when the mouse gets stuck to the trap it cant escape and it dies from hunger, and weakness from trying continuously from freeing itself and it dies after 4-5 days of struggle. This stuff is inhumane I felt so bad for the poor little thing that i freed it, which was the hardest thing to do, and left in and open field.
A. If you don’t catch any mice or rats by the sixth day after you put out the traps, put on gloves (so you don’t transfer your scent to the trap) and move the trap to another rodent runway. But make sure the traps haven’t become covered with dust or bridges of debris that give mice and rats the traction they need to escape. If the glue isn’t smooth and continuous, put out a new trap.
I have bought various ultrasonic pest repellents. They tend to work for a short time only. For really great results we bought an electronic mouse trap. The trap is as easy as throwing a piece of chocolate digestive into the tunnel like structure. You then switch the device on and wait. We caught our first mouse within 10 minutes and were surprised to catch 21 others over the next week. It’s a little expensive, but, really does the job for those of you who need an effective and non-messy way to get rid of Mice or Rats. Here’s a link to it on Amazon http://amzn.to/2lfCnGU
Like live traps, rat glue traps can be used to release rodents back into their natural habitat. To employ catch and release pest control, live rats can be removed from the glue traps using vegetable oil. Once you release the rodent, set it free at least 5 miles away to prevent it from returning to your home or business. Once you’re done, simply dispose of the used trap for quick and easy cleanup.
First, buy a small live trap. It looks like a wire cage with a loaded door that shuts behind a rat after it enters. In fact, the caught rodent stays alive. However, the aim of our homemade rat trap is to catch and kill at once. Batteries supply current and make it possible to design a rat killer from any commercially available cage.
Second, cover the entire floor of the mesh cage by a piece of metal plate placed on the bottom of the cage. Then, place some solid food for baiting on the metal plate near the back of the trap. It can be a bit of peanut butter, meat, fruit.
Glue traps are one of the most inhumane rat traps in existence. Glue or sticky traps are squares of heavy paper or vinyl which have been coated with a non-poisonous sticky adhesive and impregnated with substances attractive to rats. Placed on the rat’s customary route of travel, the animal walks across the sticky surface and is fixed to the trap. Rats caught in this method have been known to chew off their paws to escape, most are trapped by more body surface and die an agonizing death due to starvation, dehydration and stress exhaustion. Asphyxiation can also occur when a rat becomes stuck head or nose down to the paper. It is also possible that the animal will not die, and have to be killed manually.
On the end of the planks that hang over the buckets, smear a bit of peanut butter to attract rats. Attach longer boards on the other end of the boxes for the rats to crawl up. Rodents are nice climbers and can get to a food source in any place.
The Rat Zapper Ultra Rodent Trap offers you The Rat Zapper Ultra Rodent Trap offers you more kills and longer stand by times. This trap is perfect for larger rats (and mice too) ongoing rodent infestations and commercial applications. The kill chamber is larger than the Rat Zapper Classic. Bait with ordinary pet food or another high-protein bait … More + Product Details Close
Any trap that utilizes rat poison is considered to be inhumane. Rat poisons, almost without exception use chemical substances which can take anywhere from a few days to two weeks to actually kill the rat by slow building toxicity.
Our friend has told us about his trying to catch rats with the help of an ordinary snap trap. Once he saw how two rats were stealing the bait from the trap. One rat raised the trap’s cross-bar with the help of its teeth and returned it back after its rat-friend pulled out the bait. Rats are so cunning and adaptable that it is very hard to get rid of them. By their ability to survive, they can be compared only with cockroaches. That is why electronic traps, which kill rats by electric shock immediately, have become the best solution for many people.
I use these to discourage our cat from getting into areas she shouldn’t be. Don’t worry, she doesn’t get stuck to it. Once they see that it’s sticky they avoid it completely. Much cheaper than alternate methods. Glue is non toxic so it won’t hurt your furry friends, just keeps them out of places they shouldn’t be.
The Tomcat Glue Traps with Eugenol for Enhanced Stickiness (Rat Size) are the pesticide-free, non-toxic way to effectively control rats. The Eugenol formula provides enhanced stickiness for superior gripping power—rats are stuck as soon as they step onto the trap. And, traps are kid and pet friendly.
Place the trap in an enticing position. Place it in areas like along a wall or a high-traffic area near a mouse hole. When the mouse enters the bottle to eat the cheese, pull back on the string looped around the skewer sticking out of the bottle’s bottom. The bottle will snap closed on the mouse, trapping it within.
A huge drawback to the use of rat poison traps is the likelihood that the rat will crawl off to its nest (usually inside walls or other inaccessible places) to die, which leaves a secondary problem with the odor of decomposition. Another consequence of this, odor aside, is that fleas and mites will immediately abandon the body of a dead rat, and can establish themselves within the house or office. Since the fleas of rats are known disease vectors, one pest is replaced by another which may be equally as dangerous.
Well we’ve come along way in mouse traps but as you can see sometimes simpler is better. I’m not sure if any of these will usurp old Henry’s contraption but when you have a mouse infestation who cares, as long as you get your mouse. Before you get to cocky however, consider that the mouse has also had 112 years to study the problem and he hasn’t been sitting idle. Almost all of my mouse calls come after the do it yourself bug man has failed to round up his furry friend and I marvel just how a mouse can escape some of the gauntlets I see. Maybe while we’ve kept to the simple time tested methods the nation of mice have spread the word and gone high tech. My advice? Always call the expert!
To trap Roof Rats, set traps on tree limbs, under vegetation on a backyard fence or trellis, or on other aboveground locations roof rats are known to frequent. Fasten the traps with wire to overhead pipes, rafters and beams.
Location, Location, Location Set the baited trap in areas where you have noticed high levels of rodent activity. Rodents tend to travel along walls, so placement in this location often works best. For maximum effectiveness, use multiple traps, placed at 2 to 3 foot intervals to increase results. Place the trap with the baited end flush against the wall.
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A: Remove the small staple holding the locking bar to the wood base. Place bait inside curl found at the end of the bait pedal. Pull back bow and hold down with thumb. With other hand, engage the curved portion locking bar under the small, V-shaped lip on the bait pedal.
I don’t think that any commenters can truly say if the devices work. I do not see that any scientific experiments were conducted. Were two residences setup with exactly the same conditions both with mice. One serving as the control and one serving as the test? If you don’t evaluate using a scientific method with a control, you really cannot draw a valid conclusion regarding the effectiveness of the device.
Consider kill traps. Electronic kill traps are widely considered to be the most effective method of removing mice and rats from your home. They are also safer for non-rodents in your home, and easier to dispose of compared to other kill traps. While they are more expensive, they are the quickest way to rid your home of mice and rats, and are the most humane type of kill trap. (Live traps, however, are the most effective way to get squirrels out of your home.)