We caught chipmunks in our backyard with the department store cages. I decided to use the big corded ultrasound device, that my dad loves having in the basement for bugs, on a chipmunk in a cage. On all 10 supposed frequencies this God-mode device has, like the loud one for squirrels and down to the anti-bedbug, the chipmunk didn’t react one bit!
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Q.Do you mean to tell me that you could not invent a better trip for loading without one jeopardizing his/her fingers to load the trap? I thought you had better adaptness than that. I had to use two pliers in order to bait the trap in order to protect my fingers. What a shame on YOU.
Im a bass player and whenever Id be practicing loud I’d be hearing all this scurrying in my ceiling. Yeah I have rats in my attic and my bass guitar was pissing them off. Rats don’t like Intrasound waves vibrating them so along with traps and tons of decon and shaking them up with my bass I’ve been killing lots of them.
I’m familiar with the Ultrasonic repellers–I bought two of them last year after discovering squirrels in our new home. They were scratching around all through the walls and even between the first and second story floors!! I was very concerned about the damage to insulation and wiring. We were told they would only work in ‘open’ spaces–so I installed them in the attic space. It took nearly 3 1/2 months but seemed to be ‘mostly’ effective. They are very persistent and keep trying to return. I’m hearing one again recently. I was wondering–has anyone tried the ones that work ‘through the wiring’?? That is supposed to be effective between floors and walls!
The spinning can looks simple enough; run a wire through a beer or soda can and suspend it over a bucket of water. A stick or ruler is placed so he can climb up the bucket and peanut butter is put on the can to entice the mouse. When he gets to the can it spins like a log in water and he falls. Of course the mouse drowns in this scenario but you can leave the bucket empty but you’ll need to release him after he is caught.
Alternatively, you can also use cat’s litter. However, if the rat is infected with toxoplasmosis, it strangely may actually be attracted to cats and cat litter (a very weird side effect of the disease)
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Location, Location, Location Set the baited trap in areas where you have noticed high levels of rodent activity. Rodents tend to travel along walls, so placement in this location often works best. For maximum effectiveness, use multiple traps, placed at 2 to 3 foot intervals to increase results. Place the trap with the baited end flush against the wall.
This trap is very easy to set. I don’t understand how so many people have trouble setting them up. My problem is that the mice ate the bait and the trap did not trigger. This has happened for two consecutive nights now, regardless of setting them on the sensitive mode, and testing them to make sure they trigger at very slight contact.
We are sorry to hear about this and would like the opportunity to make it right. Our traps are covered by a 30-day satisfaction guarantee and a one-year replacement warranty. Please contact our Consumer Relations Team at 1-855-5-VICTOR (1-855-584-2867) so we can learn more and provide assistance.
The Tomcat Glue Traps with Eugenol for Enhanced Stickiness (Rat Size) are the pesticide-free, non-toxic way to effectively control rats. The Eugenol formula provides enhanced stickiness for superior gripping power—rats are stuck as soon as they step onto the trap. And, traps are kid and pet friendly.
There is an old saying, once attributed to Ralph Waldo Emerson: “Build a better mousetrap and the world will beat a path to your door.” Whether Emerson said it or not, it is a truism that has been embraced by society, and is reflected in the fact that traps to catch both mice and rats are the most frequently invented (or is that reinvented?) device in U.S. History.
Pro Tip: “The Victor Rat Trap M326 is the same trap your Dad used, but it has an extended trigger. On hard services it will pay you to use the Hercules Putty to help hold this Victor Rat Trap in one place. You can also mix some Provoke Rat Attractant with the putty and put it on the trip plate. This helps prevent the rodent from removing the lure without setting off snap of this trap.”
Rats that regularly find their way to our dwellings are indeed annoying and nasty pests. Unfortunately, they can surmount all the hurdles and gnaw through everything to get into seemingly impenetrable, hard-to-reach places. Moreover, they transfer serious diseases, attack humans and pets, contaminate food and make a mess. Rat control measures involve traditional and modern methods of extermination, such as sealing up the homes, using rat predators, snap traps, poisonous baits, rat zappers, glue boards and others. In all cases, the best option is to start from the removal of mess (where they find their shelter), water and food sources. You can purchase different types of snap traps or make your own homemade rat trap to get rid of coming pests.
Position traps along active rodent runways, such as along walls, under large kitchen appliances, in cupboards, and other areas where rodents travel. Be sure to fit the glue trap flush against a wall where rodents will run over and stick to it. Avoid placing traps in corners indoors. Since glue traps hold the mouse in place to show evidence, you can utilize glue traps to track where rodents are traveling. If you don’t catch a mouse within 2 days, move the trap to another spot. In addition to capturing mice, Tomcat Glue Traps of all varieties also trap insects such as spiders, roaches, or even scorpions.
A: Remove the small staple holding the locking bar to the wood base. Place bait inside curl found at the end of the bait pedal.  Pull back bow and hold down with thumb. With other hand, engage the curved portion locking bar under the small, V-shaped lip on the bait pedal.
I have battled rats for many years. Living close to a creek with sewer lines that run along it, these pesky critters always show up in the basement every winter. I’ve used just about every snap rat trap on the market, and although alot of the other traps work, these traps are the ones I keep coming back to. These traps work and work very well.
Rats are often shy of new objects and placing unset traps in a new location for a week or two will increase the opportunities of catching. This will acclimate the rats to the traps, once acclimated, set enough traps to kill the a large percentage of the population before the rodents become “trap shy.” This is called mass trapping, trapping them at a higher rate than they can repopulate and become shy of the trap.
ABoth rat traps are made by Victor and both are very durable and strong. The Victor M326 has a larger bait pedal that resembles cheese (though it can be baited with anything), is easier to set then normal traps, and also has a sensitivity setting that will prevent the trap from snapping due to vibrations in the environment, such as those caused by heavy machinery. The Victor M200 is the traditional wooden rat trap.
Tons of companies, including  CVS, Dollar Tree, Rite Aid, and Walgreens,  have stopped selling glue traps, and many other businesses have stopped using glue traps after hearing from concerned customers. Unfortunately, some companies still sell these inhumane devices. Whenever you see glue traps for sale, send a polite letter to the store manager. Ask him or her to stop selling the traps and point out the many companies nationwide that have already sworn off glue traps.
Notice to all the posters here that use these electronic repellers in apartment buildings. YOU’RE DRIVING ALL YOUR PESTS INTO THE ADJOINING APARTMENT, AND WE DON’T LIKE IT. Have a little consideration for you neighbors. If you insist on keeping food out, dirty dishes in the sink, or a filthy apartment, KILL the bugs and rodents. Don’t send them nextdoor.
Flatten the tube along one edge. In order to make the the tube sit on a flat surface without it rolling about, you’ll need to create a flat edge on the tube. Press a long crease in the tube along its length, then press another crease in the tube approximately 40 degrees around from the first crease. Stick a ruler in the tube to further flatten the space between the shortest distance from one crease to the other.
my only comfort is that humans are going nowhere . . and come the the day there will be no shortage of food for rats. . . If you go the spring trap way . make sure it can do the job . . this was cheap one.
My review will be short and to the point. These oversized glue boards are just perfect. They’ll catch a lot spiders, bugs and even rodents if they wonder across the glue. I’ve been using them for 3+ years and finally found this site to order more. I use them in my garage and highly recommend them!
We found a simple bucket with some water in it, 500ml coke bottle, wire through the bottle connected to each side of the bucket, peanut butter smeared about on the coke bottle. The rats/mice come to eat the peanut butter and roll off the bottle into the bucket of water. Caught 9 mice within the hour..
Here’s all the proof you need to know that you CAN handle a rat problem on a low budget. Multi-catch to single-catch—from rats, to mice, or even other rodents, you can create the perfect trap using items that you probably already have on hand.
I revew the PDF of how to set the trap and I couldn’t understand how to set the bar on the metal pedal mecanism. Do you introduce the bar on the hole in the metal pedal or you try to grab the little nail in it or both. I snap my fingers and I know it will work on a mouse. I learn more on the review that on the PDF panflet.
put one in the barn next to feed barrels it was sad it caught a bird instead. the trap worked fine though. due to the size of the trap being so large it might be a problem for small animals you are not wanting to trap. i think i’ll just use the smaller traps for everything.
If you’d like to buy it and you live in America, clicking on any of the pictures will take you to Amazon USA, who sell it at the best price I’ve been able to find. If you live in the UK, see this link.
No, guys around. I shall wait until tomorrow and if still there I will dong it on the head with a glass bottle, put it into an old dog food plastic bag and put it in the bin for rubbish collection. That is where they belong. Not around residential housing.
Last night I used peanut butter . . It woke me up about 1.30 . . this time I had freaked out rat running around with a rat trap on it’s head . . I was left with no choice but to bash it’s brains out with a hammer. . . .really unpleasant.
Place rubber bands around the skewers. Rubber bands about one centimeter in diameter  are ideal. If you have trouble finding a band that small, try using some elastic hair ties. With the hinge on the upper side of the bottle, loop one band around the two skewers on the left side of the bottle and another band around the skewers on the right side of the bottle.
Caught a huge rat the first day!! Really like the food door, making this a no mess trap where you don’t end up with food smeared everywhere. I have even caught a couple of mice in it. Highly recommend.
This stuff is a little more robust as indicated by my first rat victim on the first night. However; I found the glue trap 15 feet from the trap location upside down with no rat attached. I saw the signs of the rat hair in the glue, but, it could not hold him down. My extermination company says the rats urinate themselves free from glue traps.
I will as a matter of principle only recommend things on this site if I feel they’re good value.  Usually I’ve tried them myself or know and trust someone else who has.  In this case, I’ve been using this trap now for well over two years, with excellent results.
For rat trap DIY, you will need a piece of metal plate, a small cage rat trap, jumper cables and a 12V battery. Cage rat traps are commercially available nowadays. They simply catch rodents that enter our homes. Connecting cages to batteries allows to kill the pests immediately.
It is a stinky process but one of the best ways to prevent these rodents. Take some cow dung cakes and spread them in your attic or garden. When rats eat the cow dung, it will inflame their stomach and lead them to die. Thus, helps get rid of rats outside the house.
Set the Trap – Place the arm bar over the kill bar and secure it under the plastic pedal. Take note of the Firm and Sensitive setting. The trap will be easier to set on the firm side, but not trip as easy. The trap will be more difficult to set on the sensitive side, but trip very easily.
Actually, these rodents will eat just about anything. We were fortunate that we only lost a pack of cheap noodles and was left with only one extra opening in his pack. If left to their own survival instincts – they gotta eat – rats can destroy non-hardened food storage items and spread disease.
The answer?  Put a trap (any trap, not just an electric one) close to a wall or boundary fence where you know or suspect the rodents are running. Make sure the opening of the trap is closest to the wall.
We have a couple of cats, only problem is wife feeds them all day long so they will not catch mice/rats. If she isn’t at home for a few days/weeks, I tend to give the cats only a single small meal per day and keep a few outside. Then rats/mice are reduced drastically.
The Victor Electronic Rat Trap is an innovative solution in rodent control. It works by delivering a humane, high-voltage shock to effectively kill the invading rat, while the 3-plate design prevents escapes. This powerful device is capable of killing up to 50 rats per set of fully charged batteries (4 “C”), making it a great value when you’re dealing with a sizable infestation. It’s also easy to use! Get started by simply applying a small amount of high-protein bait, such as peanut butter or hazelnut spread, on the back wall of the trap, place the trap in a location with rodent activity and turn it on.
You cut a hole out of the top of the shoebox and tape two pieces of paper to form a trap door. We placed a little bit of cracker crumbs on our trapped doors with some peanut butter smeared very lightly to prevent it from weighing the door down and it worked great.
A huge drawback to the use of rat poison traps is the likelihood that the rat will crawl off to its nest (usually inside walls or other inaccessible places) to die, which leaves a secondary problem with the odor of decomposition. Another consequence of this, odor aside, is that fleas and mites will immediately abandon the body of a dead rat, and can establish themselves within the house or office. Since the fleas of rats are known disease vectors, one pest is replaced by another which may be equally as dangerous.
I had a problem with roof rats. Put two of these bad boys out baited with peanut butter and caught one within a day. I like the fact that it did kill instantly and the poor little guy didn’t suffer. Hate to have to kill them but can’t have them in my attic destroying things.
ANSWER: There is limited data on how well electronic or high-frequency sound devices work for household pest control. These devices may be called ultrasonic, electronic, microvibration or electromagnetic pest repellers. The manufacturers state that they use high-frequency sound waves or electromagnetic output to repel insects (cockroaches, fleas, house flies, mosquitoes, rodents, moles, and other pests).  There is truly no data, aside from anecdotal information on various internet sites, as to the effectiveness of these devices.
Use lots and lots of traps. This is extremely important. Set more traps than you think you need. The number of rodents is almost certainly higher than you think.[11] This is true for both rats and mice. Rodents breed so quickly that professionals recommend that you set a dozen traps for each rodent you see.[12] Continue to trap as long as you see any evidence of rodent activity.[13]
I am glad that I found this product. My siblings and I were terrified of them; therefore, I am so glad we caught four in total. Haven’t heard or seen them since (knock on wood!). But if I do, I will definitely order some more!
Thanks Stephanie. I was thinking of buying one of these sonic devices to keep snakes away (I have a small cat and live with very large pythons outside) If it’s going to disturb the cat and the dog, then I can’t
Well I used to be one that said they were junk. I have three homes in the country in Illinois. It seems the key is this: Don’t buy the cheapest and there is definately a critical mass issue (you need enough of them). It’s been 3 years now since I “relaunched” them and I can say they can really work if you apply them correctly. You need one per room (two if it is a big room) They must not be blocked by something. Higher works better than lower. Lastly what you will find is that you will see more activity from mice the first week or two because it makes them kind of crazy but by 2-3 weeks they get sick of it and leave. get the ones that send out both an audio signal and one on your electric wires and also get the ones that change the frequency now and then so that nothing can get used to it.