Use a hydrogen peroxide topical solution (available at most drug stores) and an old toothbrush to clean the inside of the chamber. If needed, use a wire brush to remove any corrosion, being careful not to be too vigorous. This could accidentally remove all of the protective zinc plating.
The liter bottle trap is promising; Cut a plastic soda bottle 3/4 of the way up and invert the top spout into the base. Secure it with glue or tape and put bait such as peanuts or seed in the hole so it drops to the bottom. Grease the funnel with cooking oil or butter so the mouse gets no grip. Place the trap near a shelf or something so the mouse can jump or climb to the inverted top. Once in the funnel the only way is down, he won’t be able to climb out and you can release him to a safe place. This trap is also useful in that it can double as a fruit fly or gnat trap.
AThe Trapper Rat and Trapper Mouse Glue boards use the same type of glue. The only difference is the size of the board. If you know you only have mice, then you should get the Trapper Mouse Glue Boards. If you are not sure, then you should get the Trapper Rat Glue Board because it is large enough to catch rats and mice.
they where great my fault just a little too large could have done with a size just a little smaller not sure there is such a thing ? they just eat the bait without trap going off as you can see I am a novice thanks
Of course, if you’d rather not deal with the catching process at all, it’s always a fine idea to call in your local pest control. The team at Green Rat Control are experts on catching rats and will gladly take care of the critters for you.
Determine which type of rat you’re up against. There are two common types of rats. Brown rats (Norway rats) are particularly common. Their bodies are 7-10 inches long, they have gray-brown fur, and a tail that is shorter than their body. Indoors, they live in basements and lower portions of buildings. Black rats (roof rats) are smaller, with 6-8 inch bodies, darker gray or black fur, and have tails that are longer than their bodies. Indoors, they lives in attics, voids in ceilings, and the upper portions of buildings.
Drive a stick through the opposite ends of the water bottle (Or whatever object you chose to use. It should be cylindrical and easy to roll.) Drill holes in two sides of the bucket near the top where you can slide the hanger through. Fill the bucket with water. (optional) Set up your ramps, and then bait the rolling mechanism. You’ll have rats climbing up to get to the delicious bait only to be dropped to the bottom of the bucket!
– it is very very rare for a rat to beat it… I’ve been using mine 4 years, caught about 75 rats, and only one small female was able to freak out enough to get away… she basically squirmed like crazy, got lucky and lurched backwards out of the trap.
Overall this seems like a good product and I like its non-toxic properties, but, it was not effective for me at catching rodents. Instead, I have ordered the $60 Raticator with 7000-volts of “old sparky” level rat shocking ability and expect delivery today. I can’t wait to put the “D” cell batteries in that baby and start zapping some rats into oblivion as it has very high reviews.
Place rubber bands around the skewers. Rubber bands about one centimeter in diameter are ideal. If you have trouble finding a band that small, try using some elastic hair ties. With the hinge on the upper side of the bottle, loop one band around the two skewers on the left side of the bottle and another band around the skewers on the right side of the bottle.
Consider kill traps. Electronic kill traps are widely considered to be the most effective method of removing mice and rats from your home. They are also safer for non-rodents in your home, and easier to dispose of compared to other kill traps. While they are more expensive, they are the quickest way to rid your home of mice and rats, and are the most humane type of kill trap. (Live traps, however, are the most effective way to get squirrels out of your home.)
Basically what prompted going this route was that my cat recently caught two in one day in the bushes of my yard – finally giving me the hard evidence of the rats out there. I called pest control and the rep quoted $350 for a 1 month monitoring with bait traps to capture – no poison, again for the reason stated above that they might go into walls / crawl space and die and smell terrible. Oh and no guarantee on catching anything. Seriously? $350 for *maybe* some success? I might as well spend $40 for *maybe* some success with my own trap and if it doesnt work, return it.
This type of trap is perfect for a brave or arrogant mouse who thinks he has the run of the house. If mice have become accustomed to human activity and brazenly scurry about even in the presence of many people, you’ll be able to snap this trap closed on them with little trouble.
after quite the outdoor rat infestation, we are now living rat-free 🙂 … thanks to these very effective Victor traps! (and, other items & measures taken below) … the following is what we learned, during our lil’ rat war this past 2017 summer;
Set the Trap – Place the arm bar over the kill bar and secure it under the plastic pedal. Take note of the Firm and Sensitive setting. The trap will be easier to set on the firm side, but not trip as easy. The trap will be more difficult to set on the sensitive side, but trip very easily.
The pungent smell of pepper makes it hard for the rats to breathe and threatens their survival. Simply sprinkle some crushed pepper around the corners and the holes where they reside. You will notice positive results. Repeat the process if necessary.
This is the very best video to show exactly how to set the trap!!!! I was setting it wrong and wondering why the trap would be tripped and the bait gone. Thanks soooooooo very much for your help! By the way I caught a 14 inch rat (without the tail) that had been eating the insulation of my house and coming up around the pipes! This trap works very well and is inexpensive!!!!! Joy
This is one mouse trap I use when I want to catch several mice and I am not going to be around for a little while. Many times we would use this at my hunting cabin in the foothills of the Adirondacks when we would leave for the week and come back to a bucket full of mice.
These work great, paired this with the snap traps and have gotten 4 rats in 24 hours out of my barn. They’ve been flipped a few times without a catch, but have made some impressive toe-hold catches too. These worked great for an initial onslaught but aren’t really reusable and thus pretty expensive on a per rat basis. I’m given 5 stars on the product itself, but 1 star pricing for continued use.
This is a very short sharp noise generally uttered by rats being groomed or manhandled by another rat or stroked / scratched by a human. Generally it is a sign of very mild protest, the longer the sound the more they are protesting. Sometimes rats will just make this noise for no discernible reason, they may appear very submissive, happy or just going about their daily business and still be piping away. Some rats seem to just squeak in passing, they happily wander around squeaking when touched or handled but not objecting, in fact often enjoying it. This is normally a learned behaviour and starts when the rat is young as they link piping with good sensations rather than bad. The overall body language and amount of tension in the body of the rat should indicate if this is protest pip’ing or just general ‘chatty’ behaviour.
I stand there in shock as he hides on top of the shelf mocking me with his shrieks. It’s on! No more cute little YouTube contraptions. You know, there are times when a better mouse trap has already been built. Use it!
was planning to buy one from a tv online shop. however after going through comments, i am backing out. cant afford such an expensive night lamp! lovely comment by someone asking this to use as hammer 🙂
Wait for the mouse to fall in. The mouse will run up the ruler to reach the food on the opposite side of the coffee can, then fall into the can when the apparently solid surface gives way beneath it. You’ll know the trap has been sprung if you see the bait you laid is no longer there, or if the construction paper has been partially torn. Check the can for the mouse.
We are sorry to hear about this and would like the opportunity to make it right. Our traps are covered by a 30-day satisfaction guarantee and a one-year replacement warranty. Please contact our Consumer Relations Team at 1-855-5-VICTOR (1-855-584-2867) so we can learn more and provide assistance.
Apparently these have been modified into an inferior design. I had a few (I guess) older model mouse traps that were working fine. I bought four more to spread around, not thinking the design would be any different. But these new ones are impossible to keep set, if you can latch the bar at all. Had one snap while I was baiting another one, with nothing triggering it. The second one snapped as I was trying to place it by sliding it ever-so-gently across the smooth floor. Both happened after several attempts at latching, including grabbing some pliers so the bar might stay put. They are going into the trash. I can catch air easily enough without a trap, but I guess it was fun while it lasted. I couldn’t care less about a refund. I’ll consider the price a lesson learned, and cherish my remaining old ones until wild mice are extinct. Anyone know where I can find some more old ones?
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We apologize for this experience. How much bait was used? When baiting the trap it is important to remember a little goes a long way. We recommend baiting with a toothpick amount of peanut butter. Anything more than that, and the mouse may be able to eat the bait without getting caught in the trap.
We carry Trapper Rat Glue Traps, Catchmaster Cold Temperature Rodent Traps, Trapper Plastic Tunnel, Trapper Cardboard Tunnels, Maxcatch Giant Glue Boards, Rat Glue Books, and Trapper Glue to make your own boards.
We had a double deck built in August this year thus, assume this is where the origin of our problem occurred. As a result, we began to see a large brown rat of which had burrowed under the deck up against the basement wall. With the sound of constant chewing then sudden squealing we realized she had given birth. The rodent entered at the outside air condition unit under the deck and now, are in the basement . At this point, we hired a pest control to use humane options $400. caught one rat and did not leave the trap at that cost! Obviously glue traps do not work,after the first release. Then, again able to remove the bait from another clamp trap apparently out smarting us again. What about a bucket trap? Advise please.
We’ve all seen it happen. The mouse comes out to the trap that you strategically placed in the corner where it was forced to walk. It takes a minute to breathe in the fresh aroma from the cheese you placed ever so gently on the trigger switch. Then, it makes its move.
I have a huge rat problem going on… They are in the crawl space above my kitchen having a grand ol’ time and living quite comfortably. I didnt notice the screen covers on the vents have holes in them and they just climb the stucco to get up there – this was pointed out to me by a pest control inspector. Worst of all there is no way for a person to access this area to get them out, nor poison them and have them die up there, potentially.
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To set the trap, hold it vertically and make sure the yellow pedal is at about a 20 or 30 degree angle from the base. Then set the trap by hooking the metal bar under the lip of the yellow pedal. If you hook the left side of the pedal, the trap will be easier to set but slightly more difficult to trip. If you hook the right side, the trap will be more difficult to set but slightly easier to trip. For the best accuracy and outcome, we recommend setting the trap somewhere between these two settings.
My review will be short and to the point. These oversized glue boards are just perfect. They’ll catch a lot spiders, bugs and even rodents if they wonder across the glue. I’ve been using them for 3+ years and finally found this site to order more. I use them in my garage and highly recommend them!
Lay the bottle on its side with the hinge on the table. With a black marker, mark two points on the side of the bottle approximately one centimeter from the place where it has been cut, one on the left side of the cut and one on the right side of the cut. The marks should be located half a centimeter from the top edge of the bottle. Rotate the bottle 180 degrees along its horizontal axis and place symmetrical marks on the other side.
Use lots and lots of traps. This is extremely important. Set more traps than you think you need. The number of rodents is almost certainly higher than you think. This is true for both rats and mice. Rodents breed so quickly that professionals recommend that you set a dozen traps for each rodent you see. Continue to trap as long as you see any evidence of rodent activity.
By having these rat traps baited with Provoke Rat Attractant , Pro-Pest Professional Lures, or peanut butter in unset traps, a large population would be use to feeding on around the traps. When the rat traps are then simultaneously set after a while of this “feeding”, a large kill can be obtained.
I have tried electronic zappers without success. Some larger critter(s) must reach in and snatch the bait without getting a fatal charge. And I briefly tried rat poison before realizing that birds and animals eating the poisoned rats were likely to be poisoned to some degree.
Ultrasonic electronic pest and insect repellent devices claim that their high frequency sound waves are intolerable to rodents and insects. However, simply plugging in one of these devices probably won’t end your pest woes. It’s important to understand exactly what these devices can do before investing in one.
I have found a much better bait than peanut butter . . . Tootsie Rolls. Just moisten them in your mouth and place a portion on the trap. You will catch several mice/rats before you need to add more bait. Give this a try.
I just bought a Ultrasonic Pest repeller..I am wondering if it gets rid of “earwigs” down here in FLorida. I get a lot of them come up to cracks of my front door and back sliding glass doors. I have a plug outlet near my front door..maybe a good place to plug it in. Will it keep them from coming undr my front door if the device is just inside the front door?…also…Had a small snake outside my front door..does it get rid of them too?